Just how much can you taste with only 36 hours in Chicago? With a good guide, there’s quite a lot, I discovered.
It began with an overnight stay near Midway airport before a late flight home. The only thing I was certain of was the easy train connection from the terminal and it was my chariot first thing on a Monday morning this fall.
My destination was a rendezvous in the Gold Coast neighborhood for a Chicago Food Planet Food Tour.
Was 11 am too early to dive into deep dish pizza?
Not in my book. After a quick sidewalk orientation with the energetic and hilarious Jackie as our guide, our little group entered Lou Malnati’s Pizzeria on North State Street. If the name sounds familiar you may have seen the episode of John Stewart’s Daily Show. Malnati’s made a delivery of Chi-town’s finest for a segment about how to eat deep dish pizza.
Turns out the Malnati family moved from Texas in the 1940’s and worked at Pizzeria Uno, where the first deep dish pizza was born. Their own take-out place opened in 1971. They’ve kept growing and the recently opened Gold Coast location has plenty of room for dining with a cool industrial vibe. We enjoyed their classic butter-crust pizza. Each large pie featured over a half pound of Mozzarella and lots of sausage. That version outsells Pepperoni in Chicago. I now know why.
Sipping tea is perfect after a filling slice and we next ventured into an exclusive Tea emporium, Teagshwendner. Now before you say ‘Geshundheit’, know you can find many locations of this world class specialty tea store via their easier acronym – TGTea.com.
We entered a tea fancier’s wonderland stocked with over 250 of their blends plus imported classics. I confess to being a green tea addict and was charmed by the knowledge of the staff. They prepared special blends for us explaining optimal brewing practices. Green tea is touted as the health-brew du jour, but all true tea is from the same plant with the same benefits. It’s a matter of taste. Taste we did before venturing back out to see the Belles of the Gold Coast, the mansion neighborhood first built by Potter Palmer in the 1800’s.
We passed the home featured in the movie, Ferris Bueller’s Day Off, and the first Playboy Club, now several floors owned by separate families. We were told that one relic of Hugh Hefner remains. There’s a plaque near the entrance, admonishing in Latin, “If you don’t swing, don’t ring!” Our guide, Jackie, kept us going with more historic and titillating lore as we strolled to Old Town’s Wells Street.
Before I knew it we were entering a narrow and exotic space, the Kameachi Old Town restaurant. Upstairs we climbed to a private dining room for a sushi and sake tasting. Kameachi was established after WW2 by internment camp survivors who joined a burgeoning Japanese population looking to put distance between themselves and California. The restaurant holds nothing of that rancor, but is a graceful and beautifully decorated space. Their sushi sampling was simple and fresh; the sake sips a perfect accessory.
On a food tour what better to do after a bit of protein than dessert?
Across Wells Street was another legendary storefront, The Fudge Pot. The deliciously fragrant, compact shop was founded by owner David D’Atello’s father who started his confectionery career at the Mars Candy Factory. He helped create the Three Musketeers candy and infuse milkshake flavor into Milky Way bars. We were led to a behind-the-counter treat, their famous Butter Toffee, while standing next to fancy molds and trays of their in-house favorites. The delight they have in fashioning specialty chocolates and all kinds of candy overflows in the cases and shelves.
Taste treats and stories continued along Wells Street. At Old Town Oil we ‘ripped and dipped’ fresh La Fournette Bakery baguettes and soaked up flavored vinegars and oils. My vote goes for the aged Balsamic, particularly the Persian Lime and Pomegranate. Undaunted, our sensory overload continued at the Spice House a few doors away.
Over 600 varieties of fresh spices filled a large, airy room. Small baskets of fresh samples were set along shelves overflowing with condiments from around the globe. Freshness is key here and the staff keeps busy replacing ground spices every two weeks.
After looking around a bit we were ushered through the back door into a small garden for a presentation about cinnamon. Did you know how many variations there are? A mild version comes from Sri Lanka; Indonesian bark is a bit stronger and the most popular for American palates is the Vietnamese or Saigon version. It smells just like the Red Hot candies I craved as a child. Now I know why.
Our little group had bonded over all this indulgence but we said goodbyes after the last stop, Delightful Pastries, with its European style cases and goodies. We ate pastel-colored and puffy macrons, a favorite for the large Polish population of Chicago. They were perfected by owner, Debra Wolinski, who hails from South Africa.
Chicago is packed with history, traditions, international flavors and peoples. The Chicago Food Planet offers food tours and culinary samples in many neighborhoods that visitors might never discover on their own. I look forward to returning to walk off more calories with the good company they attract and their fun, informative guides.
Have you taken a food tour? Do share!
This tour was a gift from Chicago Food Planet but all opinions and recommendations are my own.
I love taking food tours while being on a trip. That’s a great way to indulge yourself in local food. I will definitely attend a food tour like this in Chicago and won’t mind relishing a pizza at 11 AM at all.
I love walking tours and food and history make good partners. Chicago has a lot going on!
*Licking my chops* at the thought! And 11 am is absolutely never too early to dive into deep dish pizza!
Thanks! I didn’t regret a single bite.
Food tours are a great way to learn about a city. Thanks for sharing!
I look forward to doing more food tours too. Thanks for sharing.
Your post makes a compelling visit for a visit to Chicago! What interesting stops along the food tour!
Thanks, Irene. I was so glad to have time to explore after just flying in and out of Chicago without a visit. Thanks for the comment.
As I recall, this food tour has been around for quite a while–one of the trailblazers of the movement! Love the Chicago deep-dish pizza and find it interesting to learn about what else is in town.
You’re right. The Gold Coast/Old Town Chicago Food Planet Tour is their original. Can’t wait to return and explore more with them. Thanks for writing, Carole.
I love food tours. I love Chicago. This would be a perfect fit for me!
I love walking tours especially in a new town, throw in food and it’s hard to beat.
That sounds really yummy! I did two food tours in Berlin and it was so much fun! When I visit Chicago I’ll definitely try to go for that one too!
How lovely to have been to Berlin and to have done two food tours there! Someday I hope to follow your lead.
A food tour sounds like a wonderful way to learn about a city or a country’s history and culture and I plan to sign up for one the first chance I get! The Spice House looked so interesting (600 varieties!) and who can resist deep dish pizza, specialty teas, sushi, chocolates … MMM!
It was a pretty hedonistic day! But well organized with just the right sized servings so no one was ‘suffering’ by the end of the tour. The Spice House is fascinating and there’s so much more to what they’ve accomplished. I hope you visit.
Just had lunch but after reading your post I’m feeling hungry again! 🙂 I’ve been on a food tour in Italy once and it was great fun. The way people eat and what they eat tells you so much about who they are and what they love, so yes, I’m a big fan of food tours.
I’d love to do a food tour in Italy! Their such a fun way to mix history, local culture and bond with new friends. Thanks for writing, Nina.
We just did our first food tour in Marrakech last week and absolutely loved it! I think I will do more of them in our travels! This one in Chicago looks great, what a wonderful way to see the city while eating your way through it all 🙂
I envy you having been in Marrakech! Now that must’ve been an incredible tour. There’s so much more to eat through in Chicago and yes, it was great fun. Thanks for writing.
I have only ever been to Chicago when I was at the airport during a layover. After reading about this food tour and the description you gave of the places you saw while on it makes me rethink my next trip. Maybe I should actually visit Chicago and not just the airport.
I was in the same boat until this trip. Whichever airport you fly into know that there’s a train terminal close and the downtown loop is not far. It’s a great way to get into the city.
I somehow managed to attain the ripe old age of 60 without ever going on a food tour. Your post makes me think I need to remedy that in the very near future. I think I’ll start with one in my hometown—Philly.
Do share when you do. We have kids moving to Philly this summer. Looks like I’ll be spending some time there!
Nice recap of the Chicago Food Tour. I’m a native Chicagoan and I love Delightful Pastries. Dobra is a good friend and does a wonderful job with everything she prepares. She has a practice of only using excellent ingredients fresh & and natural. Her Polish paczki on Fat Tuesday are the best in the city.
You’re lucky to be there for her Fat Tuesday treats. She offers cooking classes. Wish I were in town for those.
I love food tours, and that one looks as if it has a great variety of flavours.
The folks at Chicago Food Planet have it together. I loved that they had tastes from across cultures and traditions that are all part of what makes the city great. Can’t wait to do more!
Sounds like an incredibly fun tour, especially the pizza! I need to book a food tour. 🙂
Usually the tours are incredibly cool & you discover places only the locals know. Thanks, Howard.
Who doesn’t love Chicago and food? A great combo, thanks for sharing!
I can’t wait to visit Chicago again and explore more.
I’m with you, it’s never too early in the day for pizza! This sounds like an overall fabulous way to spend 36 quick hours in Chicago. All the food you had sounds soo delicious.
Thanks, Leah, it was a tour full of treats but not overwhelming. Can’t wait to return to explore more.
Sounds like a delightful (and tasty) tour, offering a good variety of dishes, together with some learning. The pleasures of a city with a very mixed population! I have to make dinner now, suddenly very hungry…
Thanks, Juergen, If the post made you hungry, I’ve done my job!
Looks like a great tour. We always try to stop at Al’s Italian beef when in Chicago too. Easy to grab one near the train station.
Thanks for the tip. I’ll put Al’s Italian Beef on my return trip list.
Wonderful post! Next time I am in Chicago I will definitely take this tour! I love food tours and have taken some outstanding ones in San Francisco and Seattle, as well as a tour by bicycle in Amsterdam. When I finish a tour I swear I will never eat again…but I of course still do! Thank you for the recommendation!
I’m still new to food tours but you’ve got me inspired to try some in San Francisco and Seattle too. Great foodie cities. Thanks for writing.
What a wonderful way to explore the City of Chicago. I’d love to follow your footsteps – and I’d certainly be trying one of Chicago’s famous deep dish pizzas before noon.
Thanks, Leigh, I learned so much about Chicago in those neighborhoods. Calories be damned!
Looks like a fun tour- I was a BIG Ferris Buhler fan so would have loved seeing the house. The food part looks like delicious fun. We did a food by van in Denver a few years ago and loved it.
The Ferris Bueller house was dolled up for Halloween when I was there. Spectacular place. The tour was a great introduction to Chicago history and recipes. Thanks for writing.