La Paz Mexico is a relaxed and comfortable city that transforms each fall. A creative frenzy takes over before the annual Festival de Día de Muertos, the Day of the Dead. The fishing-village-turned-vacation-spot has hosted movie stars and nobility. It also inspired John Steinbeck to write his novel, The Pearl. No less than Jacques Costeau praised it as a scuba diving mecca perched on the Sea of Cortez. La Paz Mexico also hosts of one of the largest Day of the Dead festivals in the region and the whole city gets involved.
Young women dressed as Catrinas in La Paz Mexico
It’s a family affair in La Paz Mexico
On the evenings of November 1st and 2nd throughout Mexico, families and friends gather to remember those who have died. Altars honoring loved ones appear in offices and churches. They overflow with Aztec marigolds, pictures, candles, decorative breads, and personal items. Home altars and cemeteries are central to the celebration in La Paz, Mexico. Generations gather to remember and to teach the young about their ancestors. It’s a festive time reaching back to the Aztec culture which celebrated death as a pleasant after-life with good company and no worries.
An office altar in La Paz, Mexico
Where did the Catrinas and Calaveras come from?
North Amerian and European cultures see death very differently than in La Paz, Mexico. In the ancient Indian culture of Mexico, death is a woman. She’s called la Flaca, la Huesuda, la Pelona or La Catrina (the Skinny, the Boney, the Baldy or the Fancy Lady.) Her presence, bones and all, is welcome as escort leading the dead to join loved ones who’ve already passed and they spend eternity enjoying each others company.
The original Calavera de la Catrina by José Guadeloupe Posada
Statues and period costumes were inspired by the political illustrations of artist José Guadeloupe Posada (1852-1913.) He satirized the upper classes during the reign of Porfirio Diaz. Since then many versions of the Calaca, the Calaveras or skulls and skeletons, wear fancy clothes. They are portrayed dancing and playing musical instruments with abandon.
The crowd cheers on the performers and competitors.
I’ve visited cemeteries for Dia de Muertos in Tijuana (Read about that here) but was unprepared for the crowds and sweet rituals at the Festival in La Paz, Mexico.
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On the first night of the festival, I joined the crowd at dusk. The periphery of the huge plaza overflowed with displays of altars. Traditional foods filled vendors’ tables while families of all generations mingled at the free event.
Watch the Festival in this short video:
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Even horses are decorated for the La Paz Mexico Festival
The night darkened as I walked through the plaza. Onstage a variety of vibrant dance troupes went through carefully crafted choreography. Comedians performed and the emcees kept things rolling. Then, in the crowd, elaborately costumed Catrinas materialized. Silent and regal, they were comfortable posing for pictures and each costume was more elaborate than the next.
The stage competition begins at the Day of the Dead Festival
As the night progressed, the stage cleared while emcees introduced a parade of women, men, and young girls. Each strutted across the stage competing solemnly for attention and the judges’ votes. Unfortunately for me, the winners weren’t announced until the following evening.
A comedian onstage at the Dia de Muertos Festival
One of the many varied dance performances at the Dia de Muertos Festival
One of the more creative dance performances.
I don’t speak Spanish so the comedians’ performances were lost on me but it was easy to share the crowd’s enthusiasm. No translation was necessary. Also, not many know but I was an actress for years and always loved period costumes. Knowing how much work and commitment it takes to make these outfits and how much energy it takes to “stay in character” in crowds and onstage, made the Festival a deeply, thrilling night!
Royal bearing in a young Catrina.
The La Paz Mexico Dia de Muertos Festival
If you don’t have a car, have a taxi drop you off. When you’re ready to leave, walk a few blocks from the Festival site to the main street to catch a ride back.
Free and open to the public.
Held on the evenings of November 1st and 2nd every year.
What an amazing experience. I love La Paz, but what a treat to visit during day of the dead. The makeup is so beautiful and you have some wonderful shots. I think this is now on my travel wish list!
Thanks, Alexa. One of my favorite things to do while traveling is to attend local festivals but I usually miss them. It was a thrill to be part of this community event and I’m glad to have gotten some great pictures.
Thanks, Amanda. It is truly wonderful to enjoy a community festival in a new country and I’m glad that Dia de Muertos is being celebrated in the US now too.
I’ve never been to Mexico, but if I ever do, I’ll definitely try to time it to coincide with Dia de Los Muertos! I love how intricate the Catrinas are. I saw online that a lot of people did Catrina makeup for Halloween, which was a little controversial (cultural appropriation, etc.), but attending the festival itself? wow, I’d be totally up for that! They celebrate the Day of the Dead differently in Ecuador (it’s also a few days later), and I had the pleasure of joining in last year. Seems to be a much more joyous occasion in Mexico.
Grief is hard to get through but I love the Mexican approach, yet don’t claim to understand it completely. However, I was so taken with this festival at once happy and solemn.
I think the history behind the day of the dead is fascinating. I love the idea of a huge festival to celebrate it. They do such an amazing job with the face painting.
I’ve heard about the Dao of the Dead Festival in La Paz and I’d love to go there at least once. You make it sound so exciting. Truth is that it seems a little creepy, doesn’t it? #TheWeeklyPostcard
I’m a huge fan of Day of the Dead and there’s no better place to celebrate! I celebrated in the Riviera Maya a couple of years ago. I adore La Paz and can see how much they put into their festival — looks so fun!
Its Halloween and the right time to be reading about the festival of day of the dead! I agree that while we enjoy watching the entertainment, the people involved in providing the show would have surely gone that extra mile. I really liked the one in which the dancers are wearing white, probably depicting the ghosts. They look quite fluid…
I absolutely LOVE this and would die (haha) to go to La Paz for their Day of the Fead festival! I love to dress up as well. Perfect timing for this post!
Wow this would be amazing to check out! I find the costumes and make up so fascinating! Pinned for later! Thanks for linking up with #TheWeeklyPostcard!
Dia de los Muertos is one of my favorite cultural festivals. Although I know it has been popularised by the latest James Bond film -which isn’t a bad thing – the spiritual traditions of remembering and honoring family and friends that have passed is a wonderful celebration. I think all societies could benefit from such a celebration – and any excuse for national holiday is good in my book!
Had no idea the Dia de los Muertos celebration is so elaborated in La Paz. Seems Oaxaca gets all the credit. Interesting how the calacas and La Catrina came to life. They are so popular nowadays. Enjoyed your post! #WeekendWanderlust
Wah it’s Halloween and a little bit creepy :s Thanks for introducing La Paz, Mexico and the event. I think I would enjoy the performance a little bit, just because of it’s back stories and variety.
I like how the festival is celebrated. We don’t have anything similar here and that is the children of India love participating in this. 😀 Frankly I wish to be a child again during this festival.
Wow, I had no idea there was so much to this festival. It was also really nice to get the information behind the Catrinas and Calaveras. It actually explains a lot from the other trips I made to Mexico (but not during the festival). I hope to get there in the next couple years, on my way to finally exploring South America.
Wow! Those make-ups are impressive. It was very interesting to learn more about this festival. I hope I’ll have the chance to go there one day. Plus, if Cousteau himself said it has fantastic scuba diving, I’m always up for it 😀 Thank you for sharing!
I sooooo wanna be part of this festival. I love the costumes colors and celebrations. Been gawking at pics from day of the dead for So long now. I think I will need a translator to understand those Spanish jokes too 😉 Thanks for this post and practical tips.
This festival is really cool. The make up is so nice and it looks just like a movie! I always adore unique festival like this and can’t wait to experience it myself 🙂
Had always wished to go to one of the Dead festivals. Love what creativity comes through the celebrations. It’s so uniquely Central/South American! I’m sure it’s a great photo op too!
I love the decorated horses and Day of the Dead in general. The La Paz festival seems particularly vivid and beautiful. I could just imagine us listening to comedians and not speaking a lick of Spanish. That seems to happen to us every trip to Mexico, yet they all turn out awesome. This looks so cool.
I left Mexico two weeks ago. After reading this I would need to plan a new trip for the next November 🙂 Thanks for sharing and for the great video material.
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What an amazing experience. I love La Paz, but what a treat to visit during day of the dead. The makeup is so beautiful and you have some wonderful shots. I think this is now on my travel wish list!
Thanks, Alexa. One of my favorite things to do while traveling is to attend local festivals but I usually miss them. It was a thrill to be part of this community event and I’m glad to have gotten some great pictures.
I love the way the South American culture treats death. This looks like a perfect city in which to experience Dia de los Muertos.
It’s a wonderful place to visit year round. Not full of the Vegas-loving diversions but truer Baja Mexico.
I love Dia de Los Muertos. I think it is such a beautiful tradition. It would such an incredible experience to celebrate in Mexico.
Thanks, Amanda. It is truly wonderful to enjoy a community festival in a new country and I’m glad that Dia de Muertos is being celebrated in the US now too.
I’ve never been to Mexico, but if I ever do, I’ll definitely try to time it to coincide with Dia de Los Muertos! I love how intricate the Catrinas are. I saw online that a lot of people did Catrina makeup for Halloween, which was a little controversial (cultural appropriation, etc.), but attending the festival itself? wow, I’d be totally up for that! They celebrate the Day of the Dead differently in Ecuador (it’s also a few days later), and I had the pleasure of joining in last year. Seems to be a much more joyous occasion in Mexico.
I hope you get the chance to participate in Mexico one year. Looking forward to visiting Ecuador soon too.
Such a great concept to celebrate a Day of the Dead with joy. I would love to visit La Paz and see the festival in person.
Grief is hard to get through but I love the Mexican approach, yet don’t claim to understand it completely. However, I was so taken with this festival at once happy and solemn.
I think the history behind the day of the dead is fascinating. I love the idea of a huge festival to celebrate it. They do such an amazing job with the face painting.
It’s so uniquely celebrated all across Mexico. Truly, the face painting is spectacular.
I’ve heard about the Dao of the Dead Festival in La Paz and I’d love to go there at least once. You make it sound so exciting. Truth is that it seems a little creepy, doesn’t it? #TheWeeklyPostcard
I think you’d enjoy the celebration and performances. A little creepy is cool! I can’t handle the horror in US Halloween celebrations as a contrast.
I’m a huge fan of Day of the Dead and there’s no better place to celebrate! I celebrated in the Riviera Maya a couple of years ago. I adore La Paz and can see how much they put into their festival — looks so fun!
The Riviera Maya would be a wonderful place to celebrate Dia de Muertos. The La Paz Festival was wonderful too.
Its Halloween and the right time to be reading about the festival of day of the dead! I agree that while we enjoy watching the entertainment, the people involved in providing the show would have surely gone that extra mile. I really liked the one in which the dancers are wearing white, probably depicting the ghosts. They look quite fluid…
There were many dance troupes and this one was truly the most ‘fluid.’ All very Mexican!
Wow! The makeup and costumes are amazing! Attending a festival like that would be such a fascinating experience! Lucky you! #theweeklypostcard
It was a great perk to being there to dive during the festival dates. Friends discovered the celebration too.
I absolutely LOVE this and would die (haha) to go to La Paz for their Day of the Fead festival! I love to dress up as well. Perfect timing for this post!
Thanks, Jane. It was quite a night!
Wow this would be amazing to check out! I find the costumes and make up so fascinating! Pinned for later! Thanks for linking up with #TheWeeklyPostcard!
Thanks and I’m with you – the colors and costumes were wonderful.
Dia de los Muertos is one of my favorite cultural festivals. Although I know it has been popularised by the latest James Bond film -which isn’t a bad thing – the spiritual traditions of remembering and honoring family and friends that have passed is a wonderful celebration. I think all societies could benefit from such a celebration – and any excuse for national holiday is good in my book!
Thank you, Vicki. I so agree it’s a wonderful holiday.
Had no idea the Dia de los Muertos celebration is so elaborated in La Paz. Seems Oaxaca gets all the credit. Interesting how the calacas and La Catrina came to life. They are so popular nowadays. Enjoyed your post! #WeekendWanderlust
Thanks, Ruth. Mexico City has a large Dia de Muertos Festival as well.
Wah it’s Halloween and a little bit creepy :s Thanks for introducing La Paz, Mexico and the event. I think I would enjoy the performance a little bit, just because of it’s back stories and variety.
Thanks! Creepy a bit but also gorgeous fun.
I like how the festival is celebrated. We don’t have anything similar here and that is the children of India love participating in this. 😀 Frankly I wish to be a child again during this festival.
Thanks, Indrani. I love your idea of being a kid again.
Wow, I had no idea there was so much to this festival. It was also really nice to get the information behind the Catrinas and Calaveras. It actually explains a lot from the other trips I made to Mexico (but not during the festival). I hope to get there in the next couple years, on my way to finally exploring South America.
Sounds like you have a fine plan, Skye
Wow! Those make-ups are impressive. It was very interesting to learn more about this festival. I hope I’ll have the chance to go there one day. Plus, if Cousteau himself said it has fantastic scuba diving, I’m always up for it 😀 Thank you for sharing!
I’ve been there twice for diving and it’s spectacular. Glad you enjoyed the post.
Interesting performances and seems to be great for Halloween! I am also very curious about the “traditional food” mentioned 🙂
The food centered around sweets and breads mostly. I was very tempted!
I sooooo wanna be part of this festival. I love the costumes colors and celebrations. Been gawking at pics from day of the dead for So long now. I think I will need a translator to understand those Spanish jokes too 😉 Thanks for this post and practical tips.
Thanks so much, Jo. I hope you can play along too one year.
This festival is really cool. The make up is so nice and it looks just like a movie! I always adore unique festival like this and can’t wait to experience it myself 🙂
I hope you go! It’s a wonderful immersion into the community too.
What an event! I’d put the Day of the Dead right up there with India’s Holi festival- something you need to experience at least once in your lifetime.
Had always wished to go to one of the Dead festivals. Love what creativity comes through the celebrations. It’s so uniquely Central/South American! I’m sure it’s a great photo op too!
It’s all so creative and truly unique to each region. Thanks for commenting, Sreekar.
I love the decorated horses and Day of the Dead in general. The La Paz festival seems particularly vivid and beautiful. I could just imagine us listening to comedians and not speaking a lick of Spanish. That seems to happen to us every trip to Mexico, yet they all turn out awesome. This looks so cool.
It was fun language barrier or no! I feel at such a loss having lived close to Mexico for most of my life and never mastering Spanish!
I left Mexico two weeks ago. After reading this I would need to plan a new trip for the next November 🙂 Thanks for sharing and for the great video material.
Sorry you missed the festivities this trip. Next year!