I love urban parks, those surprising splashes of green, fountains, calm and beautiful natural spaces. San Francisco has many but this is about one special trail and the prize at its summit. Various Coit Tower stairs are famous but my favorite is the Filbert Street route. It’s a strenuous climb if you take it fast but that would defeat the reason for going! Savor the journey. At each landing there are views, gardens and details to admire.
(P.S. This post contains Affiliate Links for tours and experiences that I think you might find enjoyable. Affiliate commissions help to keep this blog going and are offered as a service at no extra costs to you.)
Coit Tower Stairs Options
If steep stairs aren’t possible for you or your companions, you can enjoy the steps and views without tackling the climb. Check out the map to see other options that will give you access to the gardens. There are several routes up to the top of Coit Tower Park and Park. One other popular stairway goes up along Greenwich Street. It’s not as crowded but it also doesn’t have the same garden allure. Also, if you don’t have the time or inclination to walk take the #39 Bus up to the Tower.
First stop: Levi Plaza
The walk up this route of Coit Tower Stairs begins on the east side of Telegraph Hill at Filbert and Sansome Streets. The stairway is across from Levi Plaza, a great spot for a picnic lunch before the climb. The plaza was designed by Lawrence Halprin. He was hired by the Levi-Strauss family to create a corporate headquarters and park that integrated into the neighborhood and was told that “Monumental isn’t our style.” The modest park has grown into a refuge for office workers in the area. It’s also worth visiting for the Levi shop, blue jean galleries and the tailor’s cubicle. But I digress.
Looking west from the plaza you’ll seet the first set of stairs rising up a steep cliff side between warehouses. Overlooking it all is the prize at the top where the Tower looms. This first section is steep but pause on the landings to admire views to the east and catch your breath. Walk and repeat.
Watch for Wildlife
Listen and look closely into the trees as you climb. You may spot some of the wild parrots that have famously moved into the neighborhood. This particular species is quite loud when cross. They are notoriously noisy companions which could explain why someone would release their pet. Several of the earliest flock were sighted with small metal bands on their legs – a sign that they were sold from captivity. Today they are admired in the open skies and treetops of the city.
A homeless musician, Mark Bittner, who took up residence in an unoccupied Telegraph Hill apartment in the 1980’s, started tending to a small flock near where he was squatting. His notes about the encounters became a 2004 bestselling book. That same year filmmaker, Judith Irving released her documentary with the same title, The Parrots of Telegraph Hill. The film chronicled Bittner’s devotion to the birds and his transformation into an amateur avian expert. There’s a happy ending too – the two married after the movie was released and their flock has grown to over 300 birds who can be spotted across the city.
The Grace Marchant Garden
The Filbert steps weren’t always as beautiful as they are today. Open spaces along the stairs became garbage dumps. Actress Grace Marchant moved into a house on the hill during the Depression years and began cleaning up the area foot by foot. Until the 1970’s she and her daughter tended the garden. In 1989 a neighbor discovered that Grace had planted on their property lines but before they could tear out the gardens out a new community group formed and raised funds to purchase the disputed land. Their activism has preserved the green space. ‘Friends of the Garden’ continues to nurture the flowers and trees for all to enjoy.
Mindful Space
I loved walking up the stairs and between homes. There were so many personal touches. One resident took a twisted branch and fashioned it into part of his fence. A sweet, older man who was carrying large shopping bags answered my questions about getting groceries into his home on the walkway. He uses his car for the biggest deliveries and parks behind the homes but enjoys taking the steps. “It keeps me going,” he said smiling as he passed.
You might think that residents would be concerned about earthquakes but fire is actually the most threatening. Given San Francisco’s tragic history with fires, I was happy to see that the SF Fire Department found a way to get a fire hydrant on the steep hill. Most tourists are respectful of the resident’s privacy and careful about leaving garbage on the stairs. There’s signs pointing to big bins along the way.
Lillie Hitchcock Coit’s Legacy
Socialite and patron of the San Francisco Fire Department, Lillie Hitchcock Coit, left a third of her legacy for the “beautification of the city.” The tower fulfilled her wishes. It was designed by the same architect, Arthur Brown Jr., who created the city’s palatial City Hall.
One of film director, Alfred Hitchcock’s most famous films, Vertigo, used San Francisco as a backdrop. The director was not related to Lillie but made sure that Coit Tower was seen clearly through the window of his hero’s San Francisco apartment (a trick as the scene was shot on a Hollywood lot.) Hitchcock’s reasoning when asked? “Coit Tower is a phallic symbol.” Perhaps it was for Alfred but I see an impressive architectural and Art Deco masterpiece.
The Summit
Coit Tower is a remarkable landmark. It’s no longer the tallest building in the city, but it’s location makes it one of the most recognizable. The hilltop was prized for its beauty as far back as 1896 when local businessmen donated profits to preserve the open space and created Pioneer Park. Today the Park wraps around the hilltop and Coit Tower rises in alabaster beauty from a hem of green.
The Tower is gorgeous inside as well. You need a ticket to take the elevator to the top but if you go by stair you’ll find the curved walls adorned in storytelling murals. Beautified as part of a New Deal art project, it took 25 painters and 19 assistants to complete. Today the themes are noted for their historical significance but when first unveiled many thought the depictions of a robber, department store, and life on the wharf were too left-leaning. Lucky for us they survived the ‘controversy.’
There’s lots more to see and do and taste in the Coit Tower Stairs area.
You might consider:
A few notes from the top of the Coit Tower Stairs
- Take the #39 Bus down to North Beach
- There’s a coin operated bathroom and a small snack bar on the west side of the park plaza.
- Don’t miss the views north to Golden Gate Bridge and across to Alcatraz Island.
- The sunsets from Coit Tower are legendary. I’ll be returning to see those one day.
This post contains Affiliate links which help to keep this blog afloat and are offered information-ally at no cost to you.
I moved from Southern California to the Bay Area in the early 1980s, when I got married. One of the first things I did, as part of my newcomer status, was to take in the sights. I climbed the stairs to the Coit Tower intrigued by its history and lovely gardens. It’s been ages since I was there and only visited once when I lived in Seattle. Now I live in Portland, so maybe I need to christen this place of my residence in a look back on those good times with a trip there soon. Thanks for a lovely post and images. Well done!
Thank you, Davalene. I hope you’re enjoying Portland still.
Loved the tidbits about Hitchcock and Vertigo. I have seen Vertigo but did not realize this connection with Coit Tower. Maybe I should not rewatch it in the light of this new info.
The tower is just in a background shot. Don’t let that keep you from visiting!
The grace marchant garden is gorgeous! I would love to sit and just stare at all of the beauty! Definitely worth the trip! xo – Kam
Couldn’t agree more. The garden was such a wonderful surprise.
I love that this trail to Coit Tower is right there yet sort of hidden or not as well known. THe Grace Marchant Garden looks stunning. I would want to take the elvator to the top of the tower to see the view
I loved discovering this adventure and tried not to be too disappointed in not getting to the top of the tower.
I’ve been to San Francisco several times but have yet to tackle this climb. I would love to see the parrots not to mention the views!
There’s lots of wildlife in San Francisco. I haven’t seen the parrots but have been surprised at signs warning about coyotes in the park!
There are so many things to do in SanFran! I haven’t made it to Coit Tower yet but am intrigue by the resident parrots and love Mark Bittner’s story. I’m definitely taking the walk up through the neighborhood next time I am in the city
I hope you get the chance and have great weather to go with it.
I’ve been close so often but I think that I haven’t made it to the summit – let alone the tower. Somehow everything in San Francisco has some myth or legend to it – just like the Coit Tower, too.
So true. Lots of stories in San Francisco and history. It’s taken me a lifetime to get to the tower too.
Great read Elaine and what a wonderful tribute to Coit Tower. Unfortunately, I’m one of those who sped up the tower and didn’t take the time to marvel each step of the way. Reading this, I realize that I missed so much. I do however remember stopping to listen to the parrots. Great to read about Mark and the happy ending/marriage 🙂 The next time I’m in SF, I will go back to Coit Tower and take a more deliberate approach!
Thanks so much, Rosemary. Glad you enjoyed the story and I hope you can return soon.
This brought back memories. One of the quieter areas of San Francisco I found and loved the views from up here. Love the route up the hill to get there and can be a bit of a challenge in the heat but I was there in the cooler winter months so this wasn’t a problem. How I wish to get back to SF soon, amazing city.
So glad that you know this walk! Yes, it’s certainly easier without heat but we were lucky with cooling breezes. Hope you make it back soon.
I visited Coit Tower when I took my son and his partner to San Francisco for their top surgery. It’s a remarkably easy place to reach with fantastic views. We actually drove there when they were convalescing so they could see the view.
So glad you saw the views. My biggest regret was not having the time to walk the stairs to the top of the tower. I’d love to see the murals.
Very inspirational post, Elaine! I’ve been to San Francisco so many times over the years and somehow never managed to climb on foot to the Coit Tower. My husband drove once to the top of Telegraph Hill to photograph the Golden Gate Bridge. I remember the view from up there was literally breathtaking, but I would have definitely enjoyed walking up the steps at Filbert Street if I knew about this route.
It’s a strenuous walk but I took lots of breaks to look around. Love that part of SF.
What a great route to Coit Tower! The Grace Marchant Garden is alone worth the climb, and hopefully you’ll see those famous parrots.
It’s a great outing and a bit of exercise that will help burn off all the goodies you can find in North Beach on the other side of the hill!
Unfortunately the Coit Tower was closed when I went so I couldn’t see inside. But I enjoyed the walk up there – going past the homes and the gardens gives a different perspective on the city.
So glad to hear that you made the walk. I too didn’t go inside but will next time.