
Horseback riding on the mesas above the Rio Grand River in Texas
Seasoned road trippers, my sister and I had grown up taking long drives with the family but we’d never veered off road to go horseback riding. Our annual trip together, this road trip through West Texas, had us pulling over on a whim often, but this morning we were rushing to make a rendezvous with a singular cowpoke.
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We knew that we had to be at the Lajitas Stables corral early and left our modest motel in Terlingua while it was still dark. The idea was that we’d pick up coffee and a light breakfast somewhere along the 26 miles between our launch and destination. What we didn’t realize taking off in the early morning dark was how deserted the road would be and how few places would be open. Two city girls, we marveled at the lack of breakfast places. The idea of a Starbucks or all-night Denny’s on a corner of that prairie land was hilarious and charming.

Dawn breakfast at the Lajitas Resort
The Lajitas Golf Resort saved our day. While it was far too early to check in, the breakfast buffet was just opening up. Caffeine kicked in as we looked out across the mesas and dawn’s light broke. Tummies satisfied and the cobwebs of sleep wiped clear, we headed to our rendezvous.

Kelly the cowgirl and our Lajitas Stables guide
I’d envisioned joining a group and horseback riding for a few hours. What unfolded was a half day ride up rocky hillsides with expansive views across the Rio Grande River, spotting wildlife and tossing rocks down into box canyons. It was just my sister Julie, me and Kelly with our sweet horses. The pace was rambling and Kelly graciously tolerated my grilling her with questions. Just before noon, we entered a shallow canyon. “It’s time for our box lunch,” Kelly joked as we stopped at the granite terminus of the box canyon.

Lunchtime during our horseback riding adventure
She looped the reins loosely, knowing the horses so well that there was no need to restrain them. They were distracted quickly, nuzzling into new greens from the recent rains. That was the hardest part of the ride – keeping them moving with all the luscious new growth along the trails (tasty if you’re a hungry horse and, ‘They’re always hungry,’ Kelly says.)
As Julie and I watched chipmunks leaping on the rocks above and circled the low pools where butterflies flittered, Kelly prepared our lunch. Miraculously, her slim saddle bag held a feast. We gorged on smoked chicken breast, a wondrous bean and corn salad, tortillas, and pickles. Cookies and lots of water capped our meal before we swung back onto our waiting steeds.

Mesa view down to the corral and into Mexico across the Rio Grande river
As we rose on a crest we spied the corral and the one horse who had remained behind began whiny-ing. She was lonely! We picked up the pace slightly as the afternoon’s heat peaked. Once we dismounted, I strode over with my bag and felt a sudden flush. Kelly took a glance up and told me to bend over. She took her bottle of ice water (frozen the night before) and poured the chilly liquid over my neck and head. I hadn’t realized how quickly heat stroke can creep up! In moments my skin and temperature were back to normal.

Our paddle master at work on the Rio Grande
Good thing too as we turned to say our goodbyes, a van pulled up. It was our second rendezvous of the horseback riding, Saddle and Paddle adventure. I regretted leaving the horses and Kelly but climbed into the cool van as we rode to a low dirt road. Our guide, Matt, backed the van trailer close to the water’s edge and shifted a Zodiac raft into position. Within minutes we had our life jackets on and were slowly cruising down the lazy river.

Butterflies on the Rio Grand River
Around us, sagebrush grew close to the lapping river. Birds darted overhead. I tried time and again to capture pictures of the bright yellow butterflies sipping at shallows as we passed. At one point the river split around an island and we were positioned for running the rapids. It sounds riskier than it actually was. My apprehension evaporated at the chance to get into the water. Matt had the four of us link arms as we shuffled into the river. A few moments later, he positioned himself to sit in the water, cautioning us to keep our feet up and forward. One by one we dipped. It was a thrill – brief, fun and a great way to cool off after horseback riding too.
Before we parted with Matt he manifested a quick snack as the skies turned dark and a light sprinkle erupted. I spied lightning over the mesa and marveled at the adventure, horseback riding, paddling and the peace of the Big Bend and Lajitas region.

An experience I’ll never forget. Horseback riding above the Rio Grand.

My sister and me practicing our familial head tilt. I won!
Go horseback riding, river rafting in the Lajitas area of West Texas:
Read more about exploring West Texas in my 2 part, Road Trip planner. Part 1 and Part 2
Special thanks to El Paso and Brewster County Tourism offices for making our West Texas adventure possible. While we were hosted all pictures and opinions are my own.
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That’s like a super good experience! I learnt horse riding in Australia and love it!
I hadn’t ridden in years. Comes back quickly especially with a good guide and horse.
Paddle and Saddle looks like great fun.
It was a wonderful adventure made sweeter with just us three girls riding together.
What a lovely way to relax and embrace the nature. Personally, if I had a choice, I would spend the whole day soaking in the river. Nothing beats it on a hot sunny day. On completely unrelated note, butterflies look unbelievably bright. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks, Elena. I would love to return and do a much longer river ride one day.
What a fun and incredible experience! Quite a spot to sit and enjoy a picnic lunch too, would love to do this someday.
That part of Texas has all kinds of surprises.
I tried horse back riding once in Honduras and it was great! My horse loved racing/ going full speed. The next morning I was in so much pain I could not move! Nonetheless, I was happy I got the opportunity to do it! As for river rafting I have yet to do it :(! Maybe I should take a trip to West Texas! Thanks for sharing your trip and bring back memories 🙂
Thank you, Jazzy. I had a horse do that to me as a teen. It galloped back to the stable! Don’t remember being sore just mortified. Nothing like that on this Texas ride.
Saddling and Paddling looks a great way to spend the day! Great post.
This looks like so much fun. I’m a big fan of horse riding and try to ride wherever I go in the world. This is my dream activity riding Texas 😀
I hope you get a chance to try this one day in Texas.
That’s funny, we were talking amongst ourselves about going to Big Bend NP just the other day. Never thought about doing it with a visit to Lajitas Resort. The Saddle & Paddle sounds like a fun adventure, too. Thanks for the idea, and for sharing on #TheWeeklyPostcard.
The resort has so many cool spots to enjoy also
Fellow Texan here! Looks like a gorgeous horseback ride. I love finding adventures in Texas!
I love horseback riding and riding where I have never been before. This looks like an amazing experience. Throw in food, adventure and a horse, life is good, right?
Life is very good, especially under the care of cowgirl, Kelly!
Lovely post, Elaine. I LOVE Texas! Definitely not good at riding horses, though.
This was a pretty easy ride all told. The horses were gentle and compliant. I didn’t go running off after coyotes!
I’ve only driven through most of Texas with quick stops in some of the cities. This place is huge! Next time I’ll take it slower and try to get some Texan activities out of the way. Horseback riding through some of the countryside sounds like a great way thing to do on a date with the wife. Cheers for this post!
It’s definitely a great state to explore. In ten days we only got a taste!
We would love to ride a horse through that landscape. After reading your post we’ve added Texas to our wishlist. Thanks for sharing in #TheWeeklyPostcard.
Thanks and I bet you’d enjoy every minute.
Lunch time picnic! We are not very experienced with horses, but we would love to learn. The views seem amazing. Thanks for sharing.
Those saddle bags held a massive amount of goodies!
What a fun outdoor experience. I have yet to learn more about TX travels and outdoors scene. The views are gorgeous.
Thanks. I couldn’t take enough pictures!
This is also on my bucket list. I would really love to learn how to ride a horse. This is surely an awesome experience. The view of Rio grande is so beautiful.
Thanks, Cai. It was one amazement after another.
What a fun experience! It’s like straight out of a western film! Thanks for linking up with #TheWeeklyPostcard!
I’m terrible on a horse but this looks like an adventure worth getting back on and trying it again. I would love to do the boat ride down the Rio Grande! That seems so amazing.
Nathan, I bet you’d find yourself a fine rider with Big Bend Tours. They made everything easy.
I feel like I was riding along with you on your horseback riding adventure. Funny about not being able to find a place for coffee so early in the morning. It’s a whole different world on the Texas prairie. I think it’s really nice that you and your sister have an annual trip together. That’s something special that not all sisters share.
Thanks, Cathy. Julie and I have always been close. We’ve just begun this tradition in the past few years.
What a great adventure! I love horse riding and it’s great that you top it off with nice view, amazing sceneries, great snack and a boat ride. Thanks for introducing to me about Texas! @ knycx.journeying
This is just one tiny slice of all the contrasting things that Texas is and offers. I’m glad you liked the journey
Great blog – it sounds like a sweet little adventure. Those butterflies look so vibrant too.
Saddle and Paddle is a wonderful idea! How lovely to have a guide and lovely food all the way too, a real treat. I’ve never come across the horseback and water combined adventure before, it’s inspired! Fantastic views, love the butterflies. #weeklypostcard
Thanks, Jo. The day was one surprise after another – all good.
We have never tried horse riding but half day ride sounds like an amazing adventure. Does it work for first timers too? The meals prepared on the go sounds no less than a treat with all those stunning scenic vistas. And cruise over the river after the ride is a great way to end an thrill filled adventure. We would love to do this some day.
This would definitely be a great adventure for new riders. My sister hadn’t been on a horse in decades. It took some gumption to keep her horse away from munching but she loved the experience.
That sounds like such a relaxing day. Horse riding in those lovely natural surroundings. Oh, and you picked such a perfect spot for a casual breakfast!
Thanks, Punita, It all fit together perfectly and we couldn’t have planned things better. Sometimes travel is best when you surrender to whatever comes next.
Sounds like you had a great time. Eventhough I grew up in Texas, Im not very experienced with riding horses, so I guess I need to work on that. Thanks for sharing on #TheWeeklyPostcard.
Thanks, Anisa Cool that you grew up in Texas. There’s so much more that I want to experience there!