When you’re hungry in a new city you can settle for simply filling your tummy or aspire to great eating. I knew I’d be famished during my stay in San Francisico’s Mission District, but where to find the best local food in the trending neighborhood was a mystery. When Edible Excursions founder, Lisa Rogovin, suggested a tasting tour featuring along Valencia Street, my tummy growled in anticipation.
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Decades before going on a local food tour was a concept, I tasted my first Tempura in a bamboo-panelled Japanese bar on Mission Street. If I’d visited Tokyo before stepping into the red lantern-lit space, it would’ve felt familiar. The shrimp and batter-slathered, veggie wedges were crunchy and cheap, perfect for a student budget. In the intervening years the Mission’s ties to Mexico have dug in deeper. The Tempura house has disappeared but the road still hosts street vendors peddling roasted corn elotes and fruit stalls spill over the sidewalk. Taquerias now open to the street in designerly tones with prices much steeper than my salad days.
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The street is still grungy but safe. Low riders have moved on and artisans have moved in, knowing there’s opportunity with the influx of tech hipsters. Iron bars still criss-cross over windows and at night, the marijuana cooperative crouches behind a roll-down garage door. One block away however, Valencia Street could be on the other side of the city and that’s where the new foodster central is growing. Boutique cafes, craft patissieries and artisinal breweries are flourishing.
Inside the Dandelion small batch chocolate roasters’ cafe
Surprisingly Lisa began our tour at the corner of 18th Avenue and Mission in front of the Duc Loi Market. No flashy store front or sparkling renovations? No, we met at a historic intersection, an apt metaphor for the next few hours.
Duc Loi Market
Cities morph. If the neighborhood was different outside, then inside should reflect that as well. The Duc Loi Market embodies that and has been successfully rolling with the changes for over 25 years. The name means “ethical earnings” and it’s become a model for the demands traditional businesses are facing in the swiftly gentrifiyng area. The owners, originally from Vietnam, continually renew their dedication to serving the needs of the neighborhood with its churning mix of Caucasian, Asian and Latino roots and wide economic diversity.
Banh Mi Vietnamese sandwich at Duc Loi market.
Lisa led me to the back, near the long cooler counter where a sandwich, a tradional Banh Mi waited. Further down the long case were cheeses from Italy, specialty meats and she looked for a pig’s head on the counter too. It was no where in sight on the Monday we visited.
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After digging into the fresh crunch of the French baguette and through the delicious spiced meat with traditional sauce, we ventured into the rows of products. One collection of BBQ sauces said it all. Artisanal bottles with monochrome, letterpress labels and tony price tags sat on the top shelf. Other shelves held equally delicious, well-known brands for half the cost. Just another testament to a neighborhood in transition.
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Lisa founded Edible Excursions before food tours were a trendy part of travel. She’s been at the forefront of gustatory adventures from the Ferry Building to Uptown Oakland, from Berkeley’s Gourmet Ghetto to the Mission; helping tasters discover “the importance of local, seasonal and sustainable eats plus signature dishes.” Her custom outings, business groups and weekly tours have gained notice and awards from SF Weekly, San Francisco Magazine and Viator. Craft cocktails and local brews have won her focus recently and soon Drinkable Excursions will be on the regular rotation of tours.
Edible Excursions is on hiatus but consider these additional food tours
Lisa Rogovin of Edible Excursions with Joe Hargrave and Sara Deseran, founders of Tacolicious.
Tacolicious
We strolled to Valencia Street and into the subtle Mosto / Tacolicious digs. The Mosto tequila bar opened last year as a new focus for Joe Hargrave and his partner, writer and marketing pro, Sara Deseran, after the success of Tacolicious (three locations in addition to the Valencia Street space.) The moment we stepped in from the Valencia sidewalk and past the subtle-to-the-point-of-missing taco sign, I knew this place was unique.
House tequila, Sangrita and sides at Tacolicious
A patterned Mexican tile floor warmed the chic, open space. Large windows and a side patio were open to the mild Mission micro-climate. Once we sat at a tall booth, a steep shot of the smooth, house Jimador Tequila appeared next to a matching portion of fresh Sangrita. That afternoon’s batch was a spirited melange of tomato, chipotle and habanero pepper salsa. Small, succulent taco plates featured fresh tortillas from La Palma Mexicatessen, another San Francisco treasure. We surely weren’t going hungry.
Inside the Craftsman and Wolves patisierrie case
Craftsman and Wolves
Across the street in a low lying, re-purposed autobody repair building with stunning brick bones, sits Craftsman and Wolves. The CAW location is one of three in the city. In a case that could display jewelry, curvacious confections waited emancipation. Each was a work of subdued, edible art.
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Lisa introduced me to the signature pastry, The Rebel Within, sliced open to reveal a soft-boiled egg within an asiago, sausage and green onion bun. The skill it takes to place a peeled egg within the dough and cook all to perfection is a testament to owner Chef William Werner’s tenacity. His expertise and commitment flow from over 15 years working in fine restaurants on the East and West coasts. The ‘contemporary patisserie’ is named with a nod to predatory challenges often facing those dedicated to craft. It appears that he’s winning the battle.
CAW signature bun – The Rebel Within – served with a vial of tabasco-infused salt!
Dandelion Chocolate
Two doors down is a wonder that would inspire Willy Wonka – the bean-to-bar, small batch chocolate factory, Dandelion. Begun by a pair of intrepid chocoholics, Todd and Cam. They’ve grown their own cacao plants and roasted beans in home ovens, then toured major chocolate factories around the world before opening Dandelion in San Francisco.
Watch the video:
Today the company roasts and grinds a batch from one farm or cooperative at a time, creating distinctive chocolate bars with fine-tuned discipline. We watched the process, and tasted more of the best local food tour before walking on.
Dinner counter inside the Bi-Rite Market
Bi-Rite Market
Vistiing Bi-Rite deli and market brought us full circle. The Italian deli has been serving the neighborhood for decades and Lisa often brings home dishes from the dinner counter, which opens daily at 4:30 pm. With art deco signage, the market opened in the 1940’s and has been run by the Mongannam family for nearly sixty years. Brothers Raf and Sam took over from their father in the late 1990’s, instilling a chef’s aesthetic to the small market and stocking the highest quality ingredients. Now lines form at the counter for the Wagyu beef, imported sliced cheeses and much, much more. That’s where I left Lisa as she ordered entrees for her family.
San Francisco organic creamery ice cream truck
Valencia Street buzzes around the clock. One night while searching for local food desserts, my son ordered goat milk and berry ice cream off a vintage, yellow fire truck. Parked in an empty, corner lot, the San Francisco Organic Creamery truck and it’s menu, was a world away from the industrial strength food trucks I’ve seen elsewhere.
Hard, Apple cider and Lao cuisine at Hawker Fare.
We also ate Issan Lao food at Hawker Fare and sipped tart hard cider, a simpler choice for dinner than one of their Tiki-inspired cocktails. They looked fantastic, however. I’ll just have to return and explore the upstairs bar menu next trip.
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Another evening I slid up to the bar at Dosa and slowly cut into a paneer and pea filled chick pea ‘crepe’ between sips of Transylvanian white wine. A young man sat across from me and ordered the $44 tasting menu. For himself. Before drinks. On a Monday night. The neighborhood has certainly turned. It’s gotten to the point where regulations are being placed on preserving Legacy Businesses and limitations are being proposed on the number of new restaurants or bars.
Hopefully Lisa will keep her best local food tour going while savoring the old and supporting the new. Her motto is: Eat. Walk. Enjoy. Repeat. I did happily until my feet were sore and my jeans were tighter.
If you’re hungry for delicious, local food in the Valencia Street area:
I haven’t been San Francisco before, but it’s certainly on my list. I would have never thought to visit Valencia Street, but it looks like there’s a treasure trove of delicious food there.
I hope you get to San Francisco soon, Alouise. I lived there and have seen different neighborhoods morph into trendiness, like Valencia Street, then fade as another catches on. The city is so vibrant!
I think my favourite thing about travelling is getting to try so many different foods . San francisco’s street for is scene looks incredible – as does the Vietnamese sandwich!
That guys ordering the tasting menu for himself must have had to waddle out of there after he was finished! That’s a lot of food! but I bet it was delicious!
wow… been to SFO so many times but how come I never heard of Valencia Street:( Thank you so much… looks like this is for all the foodies out there:) CAW signature bun, I am getting you:) Yummy…
Mmmm! Loved Tacolicious last time we were in San Francisco, and will have to stop by the Mosto next time. Tequila with Sangrita is a treat. Making lots of notes on where to go next time, in fact! Thanks for the tasty list. #TheWeeklyPostcard
San Fran is my most visited city in California however never been to Valencia street, this is a very informative guide and will definitely check it out next time. Driving in San Fran is an awesome experience besides the food and the wine with the hilly topography!
OMG!! Reading this has made me so hungry…even though I’ve just eaten dinner 🙂 San Francisco is such an incredible foodie city and there is so much to discover. Not familiar with Valencia street, but have now learned of a new place to explore 🙂 Great read!
Those are nice places to dine in, such a diversity of food and cultures packed on a single street. I love the place where chocolates are made from beans and transformed into those good looking and surely great tasking chocolate bars. Now that’s a real chocolate factory if you ask me. 🙂
Food tours are such a great way to sample a variety of great food and learn a bit about a district. The Edible Excursions tour looks and sounds wonderful. My mouth is watering.
What a great way to sample so many different flavors and bites! Yum! Duc Loi Market sandwich looked so good and the Rebel Within sounds so delicious. Thanks for the delicious inspiration! 🙂
I’ve been to Cali several times, but never to San Fran. This article makes me more hungry with every paragraph. I’m not sure if I could choose. Any place that has chocolate is on my list and S.F. is on my bucket list. Thank you for all the info, will be saving for future references.
What a great way to indulge in an areas foodie offerings! I can’t go past a good Banh Mi, such a tasty sandwich. That house-made tequila sounded like it packed a punch too.
That bahn mi sandwich looks really good! Thanks for these suggestions for San Francisco. I’ll definitely check some of them out the next time I visit the city.
I always try to get a sens of the local food – and it’s articles like this one that help me find the best places for the cities I am visiting. I’d definitely try Duc Loi Market – and, of course, Dandelion Chocolate would also be on my list. I mean… who doesn’t love chocolate? 😛
Local food, high and low, is a wonderful way to experience the culture and pride of a place. I live with someone who doesn’t like chocolate! He generously slides his desserts my way!!
So many culinary adventures in San Fran we love it! We’ll have to take this food adventure down Valencia Street someday. Tabasco infused salt? That’s a new one on me.
Great to hear, Sara. Let me know what you sample and watch your budget! It’s all wonderful but outside of take-out and the market counters, pretty pricey.
I don’t think I’ve ever done a food tour, but it looks like a great way to explore a district, especially when you’re hungry. Which I am. I’m just ready to head out in Prague, it’s my first day and I have no idea to eat. Now if it were San Francisico’s Mission District I’d be set!
I was in San Francisco around 15 years ago and dined in the Mission area. I’m not sure if it was so up and coming then, but we had lovely Mexican food that was spicier than I bargained for! It sure looks like it has changed quite a bit since then.
The Mission is not upscale but a block away, Valencia Street is peppered with boutiques, artisan breweries and roasters, bakeries and restaurants. The tech boom is pushing the neighborhood in expensive but fun directions.
It’s not hard to find great food in the fancy areas San Francisco, but those places are also expensive. I have never dined in the Mission District though. I’d love to check it out based on your recommendations. How is the tart hard cider? Never heard of it.
The cider was a great counterpoint to the slightly sweet coconut curry entree. I hope you get a chance to visit Valencia Street one day. Inexpensive though? No, unless you try take out at one of the markets!
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I haven’t been San Francisco before, but it’s certainly on my list. I would have never thought to visit Valencia Street, but it looks like there’s a treasure trove of delicious food there.
I hope you get to San Francisco soon, Alouise. I lived there and have seen different neighborhoods morph into trendiness, like Valencia Street, then fade as another catches on. The city is so vibrant!
This looks so vibrant and delicious. Love how you have clearly made friends along the way.
Thanks, Serina. Making new friends along the way – isn’t that the best?!
I think my favourite thing about travelling is getting to try so many different foods . San francisco’s street for is scene looks incredible – as does the Vietnamese sandwich!
Thanks, Sophie, trying new foods is one of my favorite parts of travel as well.
The rebel within looks yummy. I admire the chefs detailed presentation. He must be a very patient person! Would love to experience it soon!
Delicious truly. I hope you get a chance to try it too.
That guys ordering the tasting menu for himself must have had to waddle out of there after he was finished! That’s a lot of food! but I bet it was delicious!
I know, Joe, it was something to see. Perhaps friends showed up after I left.LOL!
Tabasco infused salt sounds amazing! I really need to get to San Francisco!
It was such a treat.
wow… been to SFO so many times but how come I never heard of Valencia Street:( Thank you so much… looks like this is for all the foodies out there:) CAW signature bun, I am getting you:) Yummy…
I almost missed Valencia Street too. That’s the best part of Edible Excursions – insider tips!
Definitely going to check these places out!
#WeekendWanderlust.
Thanks, Bethany! Love the Weekend Wanderlusters.
Mmmm! Loved Tacolicious last time we were in San Francisco, and will have to stop by the Mosto next time. Tequila with Sangrita is a treat. Making lots of notes on where to go next time, in fact! Thanks for the tasty list. #TheWeeklyPostcard
Nice to know you’ve been to TAcolicious! Have fun on Valencia Street.
Wow, I’m suddenly hungry! Tacos and chocolate?? What more could you ask for? 🙂
A few more inches in my waistband!
Nice list. Will have to keep this in mind whenever I get over that way. The pastry looked pretty.
Thanks, Holly, Time you made it out to the left coast?!
San Fran is my most visited city in California however never been to Valencia street, this is a very informative guide and will definitely check it out next time. Driving in San Fran is an awesome experience besides the food and the wine with the hilly topography!
Glad to hear that you found this informative, Prateek. I hope you visit Valencia one day for yourself.
OMG!! Reading this has made me so hungry…even though I’ve just eaten dinner 🙂 San Francisco is such an incredible foodie city and there is so much to discover. Not familiar with Valencia street, but have now learned of a new place to explore 🙂 Great read!
Valencia Street was one revealation after another. Hope you get a chance to explore one day too.
Sounds like a great foodie tour! That rebel within egg thing looks delicious and well worth checking out!
I bet you’d enjoy every bite, Bell!
Those are nice places to dine in, such a diversity of food and cultures packed on a single street. I love the place where chocolates are made from beans and transformed into those good looking and surely great tasking chocolate bars. Now that’s a real chocolate factory if you ask me. 🙂
Quite a surprise to find all that going on. I thought we were just stopping in at a chocolate shop.
I love eating my way through cities! I’m saving this list right now.
Glad to hear, Cheryl!
Food tours are such a great way to sample a variety of great food and learn a bit about a district. The Edible Excursions tour looks and sounds wonderful. My mouth is watering.
You’d love the tour, Donna.
What a great way to sample so many different flavors and bites! Yum! Duc Loi Market sandwich looked so good and the Rebel Within sounds so delicious. Thanks for the delicious inspiration! 🙂
You’re welcome Brooke. I hope you get a chance to try the Rebel yourself one day.
I’ve been to Cali several times, but never to San Fran. This article makes me more hungry with every paragraph. I’m not sure if I could choose. Any place that has chocolate is on my list and S.F. is on my bucket list. Thank you for all the info, will be saving for future references.
So kind, Danielle, glad you liked this. It’s a big tickle for me to hear how tasty you found the paragraphs!
What a great way to indulge in an areas foodie offerings! I can’t go past a good Banh Mi, such a tasty sandwich. That house-made tequila sounded like it packed a punch too.
Exciting places to visit and nosh at for sure.
That bahn mi sandwich looks really good! Thanks for these suggestions for San Francisco. I’ll definitely check some of them out the next time I visit the city.
Enjoy! The area is percolating.
I love this so much. San Francisco used to be my stomping grounds and you brought back wonderful memories. 🙂
So pleased to hear! I lived there for years too. This area was new to me!
Some of that looks seriously good. Can’t beat a bit of grunge – keeps the starbucks and co away…
Nary a Starbucks in sight – yet.
I always try to get a sens of the local food – and it’s articles like this one that help me find the best places for the cities I am visiting. I’d definitely try Duc Loi Market – and, of course, Dandelion Chocolate would also be on my list. I mean… who doesn’t love chocolate? 😛
Local food, high and low, is a wonderful way to experience the culture and pride of a place. I live with someone who doesn’t like chocolate! He generously slides his desserts my way!!
So many culinary adventures in San Fran we love it! We’ll have to take this food adventure down Valencia Street someday. Tabasco infused salt? That’s a new one on me.
It’s true and ever morphing. That little vial was a spectacular and sensible touch.
These dishes all look delicious! If I have the opportunity to visit San Fran, I’d love to try out a couple of these restaurants 🙂
I hope you do get a chance to visit. San Francisco is full of surprises.
So glad I came across this, as I will be in San Francisco in a couple weeks. Looks like this street is worth a visit!
Great to hear, Sara. Let me know what you sample and watch your budget! It’s all wonderful but outside of take-out and the market counters, pretty pricey.
I don’t think I’ve ever done a food tour, but it looks like a great way to explore a district, especially when you’re hungry. Which I am. I’m just ready to head out in Prague, it’s my first day and I have no idea to eat. Now if it were San Francisico’s Mission District I’d be set!
Sweet, Carol. You’d love the right kind of tour – perhaps a champagne and appetizer luxury hotels tour?!
I was in San Francisco around 15 years ago and dined in the Mission area. I’m not sure if it was so up and coming then, but we had lovely Mexican food that was spicier than I bargained for! It sure looks like it has changed quite a bit since then.
The Mission is not upscale but a block away, Valencia Street is peppered with boutiques, artisan breweries and roasters, bakeries and restaurants. The tech boom is pushing the neighborhood in expensive but fun directions.
I swear the chocolaterie would have my husband salivating. It looks so pretty!
Definitely a chocoholics dream!
That Edible Excursion tour of Valencia Street sounds like the way to go. I’m in desperate need of an update. Haven’t been there in a long time!
It’s amazing to see and taste what’s happening in the area!
It’s not hard to find great food in the fancy areas San Francisco, but those places are also expensive. I have never dined in the Mission District though. I’d love to check it out based on your recommendations. How is the tart hard cider? Never heard of it.
The cider was a great counterpoint to the slightly sweet coconut curry entree. I hope you get a chance to visit Valencia Street one day. Inexpensive though? No, unless you try take out at one of the markets!