
Mural in the Four Seasons lobby on Lana’i
Humpback whales breech, hurling themselves out of the water and crash down again. The yearly migration drama happens all around us in the channel between Maui and the island of Lana’i. Our forty-five minute ride across the strait between the islands was transport to another realm. I soon discovered that a Lanai adventure is far from the Hawaii I knew of crowded hotels, raucous luaus and flashy Polynesian floor shows.
Lana’i is full of contrasts: spare landscapes and teeming waters, green fields and dusky canyons, red dirt and blue bays. They bless the gentle island with a unique presence. The differences begin with the wind which keeps the island unusually dry. Moist clouds are blocked by the neighboring islands of Maui and Moloka’i. Tradewinds push through the channel between them. Those winds crossed over 2,000 miles of open ocean to squeeze through the seven mile channel between the islands. Still our crossing was surprisingly gentle.
Lana’i has transformed in recent history and continues to. The sloping volcanic landscape is the one constant. Comb-like tips of conifers line the crests again. Most of the trees were cut down when the island was planted with pineapples. The trees are being replanted now that most of the pineapples are gone after markets were flooded with cheaper Indonesian imports.

The original Dole hunting lodge.
Dole Corporation built a plantation town to house workers. A lodge built for hunters and the administration still sits on a slope looking East to the blue horizon. A recent change in ownership has closed the buildings temporarily as housing for contractors working on renovations at the Four Seasons Resort. Above the lodge front entrance a tall pineapple mural faces horses, the golf course and the ocean beyond.
Lana’i Village

Richard’s Market, Lana’i

One colorful Lanai village shop
The village’s Dole Park and the lodge are most of what’s left of the original developments. The town remains a warren of plantation bungalows and small businesses on a grid of narrow streets. There are no chain stores or even a stoplight. Galleries, cafes, small markets and gift stores line the central park. You can walk it in less than an hour.

Hotel Lana’i
While the island has a reputation for luxury, high thread count charm can be found at the Hotel Lana’i. It was built in 1923 by James Dole to house his plantation executives and until 1990 this was the only hotel on the island. National Historic Registry status continues with 11 only guest rooms. Henry Clay’s Rotisserie and Grill hosts live music on Thursday nights.

Four Seasons Lana’i Resort

Lobby in the Four Seasons Lana’i
High end luxury continues at the Four Seasons Resorts Lanai at Manele Bay. There’s a multi-million dollar renovation underway that should be complete by the next holiday season. The resort is set a respectful distance from an ancient burial ground. It offers members and guests exceptional service, state-of-the-art smart suites and villas full of bespoke furnishings and commissioned works. Several restaurants compete on-site with extraordinary culinary experiences. Beyond the newly renovated pools and volcanic cultural site, picture perfect Manele Bay often fills with dolphins in the afternoons. Indigenous birds and wild turkeys feed on the edge of the bramble. The luxury is quiet and complete.

Birds at the Four Seasons Lanai
For those wanting more immersion the Cultural and Heritage Center, the Art Center and the Tourism Board offer classes that visitors won’t find elsewhere. Most come for the restful beauty and return for a Lanai adventure of a different kind of Hawaii. I know I want to come back.
Many schemes have been hatched to bring the island jobs and sustainability. Today residents work in the service and tourism industries. Each year they help hunters keep the Axis deer population under control with lodging, supplies and guides. In the last few years the majority share ownership of the island transferred to Larry Ellison of Oracle Corporation billions. His influence has been slowly evolving with hotel renovations and a push to find more sustainable utilities for the community. There’s a wary progression but the locals have a voice and Ellison appears to be listening.
Subscribe and don’t miss the next post: Visiting Lanai – Shipwrecks, mud and the wilds.
If you go:
Lana’i Culture and Heritage Center –
www.lanaichc.org Educational and cultural workshops for locals and visitors. Located in the village.
Lana’i Art center –
www.lanaiart.org Art and cultural experiences for vistors and locals.
Lodging:
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Mahalo to the Lana’i Visitors Bureau for hosting my overnight adventure. I look forward to returning. Aloha. Proudly joining a superb group of travel bloggers on the Weekend Wanderlust, Weekend Travel Inspiration and the Weekly Postcard linkups. Explore their posts!
We were so happy to be driving a Jeep on our Lana’i adventure. Traversing the island in anything less than 4-wheel drive would definitely have slowed us down.
Well it’s the same with Greece…only the islands (and should I say certain islands) are projected while there are so many other places one can visit! It’s nice to see another aspect of Hawaii and not just the sandy beaches, palm trees and luxury resorts!
Thanks, Anna. It was fun discovering this unique side of Hawaii. I love the islands in all their differences too.
Our first visit to Hawaii included a day sail to Lanai and we absolutely loved it! That was quite a while ago now…your post has me convinced it’s time to go back! Not that I needed much convincing. 😉 Mahalo for the story, cousin!
Thanks, Rob. Great to hear you sailed to Lanai. I long to do that and dive around the island. Mahalo for the comments, Cousin?!
I loved this- we have visited Oahu, Maui and Hawaii. We are planning a trip to Kauai for the fall but Lana’i has never even been on our radar. It is now thanks to you. Thanks for sharing!!
Nice to hear you’re thinking of visiting Lanai, Mama Munchkin. Next post will have even more adventures there.
When we lived on Kaua’i, everyone was watching Larry Ellison carefully. The upshot for us was lots of used hotel furniture to choose from as we outfitted a new home. 😉 It does sound as though Larry is undertaking changes with respectful aloha. Preserving Lana’i and its traditions should be a priority during renovations and improvements.
Nice to hear of your experience with the new owner. Time will tell how things work out but I hope there’s a resurgence of interest in visiting the island and more sustainable work for the locals looking for that.
I haven’t been to Hawaii since I moved to New Zealand, but I have never been to Lanai. Sounds like a great place for relaxing and rejuvenating holiday.
Thanks, Rhonda, You’re on another of the world’s great islands but it’s true, Hawaii is a long ways away. I hope you find your way there some day.
I’m always smitten by hotels with a backstory. Hotel Lana’i sounds like it has such a rich history.
I’m with you – smitten by hotels with back stories. Next time I visit Lanai I hope to stay at the the Hotel Lana’i too.
Hawaii is so on my bucket list and this is the type of ambience that I am expecting.
Hi Sally. Whatever island luxury and culture you imagine is available in Hawaii. I hope whichever destination you settle for will be perfect.
I’ll be visiting Hawaii later this year…but not Lanai (unfortunately). Too many islands, too little time. It looks lovely.
Glad to hear you’ll be sampling some Aloha spirit. Come back and visit more of the islands. I’ve been to most over the years and there’s always more to discover.
Best line if the article has to be ‘high thread count charm’ – and think this is an amazing way to describe a luxury place
Thanks, Paula, you warm my writers heart.
I’ve not been there but will on route to USA at some time in the future. Are those birds real! I thought they were fake… I like the look of the Four Seasons Lana’i.
Hi Jan. Yes, the birds were real. The feeder was set up just up from the beach at the Four Seasons. What didn’t fit in the shot were the wild turkeys feeding just below. Next post!
Lanai is a wonderful island to visit. I like that it is so small. I had the pleasure of staying there at the Four Seasons for my son’s wedding a few years ago. None of us will forget that! We also had the experience of swimming with the dolphins in the bay there when they came in of their own free will and just surprised us!
That was my first Four Seasons and I just loved the service. It must’ve been a beautiful wedding. Swimming with wild dolphins is one of the greatest blessings. Unforgettable.
Lanai is on our bucket list. I have read your post with interest. I didn’t realise the history was so interesting.
Thanks, Lyn, Glad to hear you’re thinking of visiting Lanai one day. It is a very interesting place.
Lanai looks beautiful. We just went to Big Island and Kauai – I loved them. I think Lanai would be wonderful as a little less on the tourist trail….such a beautiful part of the world.
So great that you were on Kauai and the Big Island. Each one has its own personality. Truly a beautiful part of the world.
I’ve never been to Hawaii but you’ve reminded me why it needs to be on my bucket list.
It’s a bit easier to get to from California than from the UK, still I hope you can visit one day.
We haven’t been to Hawaii in years and, when we went, we always went to Maui. Lanai looks beautiful, and I love the little village shop and, of course, The Four Seasons. I just may have to start planning a trip now.
Lanai was a surprise. I think, being a discerning traveler, that you’d love it.