Have you re-calibrated your bucket lists recently? I’ve been juggling travel dreams and the new realities. The Galapagos Islands remains in my top ten adventures, and I’d return in a heartbeat to explore outer islands and spend more time in the villages. Well before the pandemic, I spent eight days exploring the islands – first on a short, pampered cruise, and later as a cost conscious, independent traveler.  There are advantages to both for luxury to budget billfolds. Whichever way you choose, I recommend making Santa Cruz Island Galapagos Central for your trip.
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As one of the most successfully vaccinated locations in the world it’s a great time to visit the Galapagos. Nearly 100 percent of the over 30,000 adults living across the islands have received both doses of the Pfizer vaccine (as reported by the IGOTA in July 2021.) Travelers are slowly returning, enticed by tour discounts and lower fares, along with the promise of smaller crowds. Traveling to the islands can do a lot of good for local businesses and help the country continue it’s conservation efforts to preserve this rare environment well into the future.

Mural of Charles Darwin near the Puerto Ayora harbor

My plan was to cruise to the more remote islands and then spend a few days exploring local culture from a land base. (Here’s an earlier post about the wonderful Latin Trails cruise.) After 5 days at sea, my cruise buddies and I parted ways at the airport on Baltra, which is adjacent to Santa Cruz Island Galapagos. I waved bon voyage to my friends, then waited for my husband to arrive from the mainland. It was such a tickle to see him walk out of customs into this exotic location!
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Getting to Santa Cruz Island Galapagos Central

Like most non-Ecuadorian visitors, he spent the night at a hotel near the Quito Airport; others stay near the Guayaquil Airport. There are no direct, international flights to Santa Cruz Island Galapagos – or any of the islands. If you book a cruise be sure that to arrive at the correct airport – Baltra or San Cristobal – the only two airports in the islands.
After our rendezvous in Baltra, we shuttled to the ferry and crossed the Itabaca channel to the travel terminal. Here visitors have choices to take buses, vans or taxis to points across the island. New solar powered ferries were installed in 2017. It makes for a quiet ten minute trip.

Crowds along the famous kiosk street in central Puerto Ayora

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Stretch Your Budget

Galapagos Island vacations are notoriously expensive  yet I met backpackers and budget travelers throughout my stay on Santa Cruz Island. The reputation may be earned by luxury cruises that can run over $10k  (many offer discounts now) and for travel fees unique to the Galapagos. Flights to the islands run between $400 – $500 USD. Wise visitors plan for the few additional tolls, flight costs, and know to bring cash. Ecuador requires cash payments at the airport for the $20 INGALA Transit Control Card and once in the airport, there’s a $100 National Park Entrance Fee. The fee is especially helpful in sustaining conservation across the archipelago. It’s discounted for Ecuadorian residents and nationals.
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Our ride to Puerto Ayora led directly across the highlands in the center of the island. The hour long drive gave us time to savor the changing views as the terrain transformed from the rocky waterway to lush green farmlands and then to the drier port area.
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Puerto Ayora, the largest city in the islands, is small by other standards especially as tourism dwindled in the past year and many vendors returned to the mainland. There are all the amenities one would expect for a tourist center on an island destination. With roughly 15K inhabitants at last count, it’s still a walk-able city.
Galapagos Pearl hotel on Santa Cruz Island Galapagos

Pearl hotel on Santa Cruz Island Galapagos

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Where to Stay in Puerto Ayora

We spent our first four nights in Ecuador in the Galapagos Pearl Hotel. It’s a few blocks off the main road in a garden setting. Our third floor, corner room had a private patio, complete with hammock. While there was no elevator it was worth climbing the stairs several times daily for the breeze and privacy. The hotel mistress ran the place with her daughter and both were very accommodating. They even made breakfast for us early so we could leave for day trips. Free bicycles and helmets were available whenever we wanted to use them too.
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There are beautiful hotels around the main port area like Hotel Solymar, and the Eco-hotel, Red Mangrove, where we enjoyed a nightcap looking over the bay. Budget travelers can choose from many hostels. My suggestion is to do your homework, know what you are comfortable with (many hostels have private rooms. No bunk-bed, dorm rooms for me these days!) and read reviews before booking a hostel.
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Explore the Town

Puerto Ayora is laid out on a gently sloping hillside that reaches from the bay to the mountain. It’s easy to walk most anywhere in town but we found that having a bike allowed for shorter transit times and more time to explore at different spots. The streets, apart from the two main roads, are narrow with little traffic after dark – perfect for dinner-time bike rides after the day cools down.
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Of course the most famous Galapagos resident is Charles Darwin whose research continues to influence science today. His studies of birds and turtles continue in the work at the Charles Darwin Institute. It’s located a short walk from town along a quiet street. I loved the stroll away from the urban crowd, the small shops and galleries. The mural scene is spectacular.
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The Institute has been instrumental in repopulating imperiled species across the islands and the staff is more than 75% Ecuadorian.  Visitors are invited to explore native gardens and the public library but I found the turtle enclosures the most exciting. There are labs for marine and land investigation, a conference hall and natural history collections although most are not open to the public.  The website states:
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“For decades CDRS has worked on conservation, restoration and sustainable development projects to ensure that the archipelago is well-managed. More than a hundred scientists, educators, research assistants, support staff and volunteers from all over the world have participated in this effort. Currently, the organization… is committed with the professional training of the permanent residents of Galapagos.”
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There are many different turtle species at various ages across the institute grounds. I think that Charles Darwin would be pleased.

Puerto Ayora Fish Market and it’s famous sea lion looking for handouts

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Where and what to eat in Puerto Ayora

Since our visit some of these places have shuttered temporarily or have expanded into new spaces. My hope is these descriptions will inspire you to explore the culinary scene, which is rebounding as tourism does too.
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While biking around downtown we discovered the street market at Los Kioskos. Tables filled the street between small cafes and restaurants.
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Our most stellar meal was at a small restaurant run by two very dedicated native chefs. Designed in sleek white and green it stood out from anything else in the area. The food was so good we ate there two nights in a row.
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The local fish market downtown is a scene of its own. It’s not large, but local catches come right off the boats to cutting tables. We bought a live lobster and found a restaurant to cook it for us later that evening. It was surprisingly affordable and a wonderful meal with the grilled vegetables and local spices.
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Of course there are breweries around the town. Small storefronts beckon and we spent a happy hour with the owner of Santa Cruz Brewery. His small storefront has expanded to a rooftop deck with views. I’ll have to return to take that all in.
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Santa Cruz Brewery Owner in Puerto Ayora

Santa Cruz Brewery Owner in Puerto Ayora

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Day Trips Around Puerto Ayora

Visit a Turtle Sanctuary

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Our landlady helped us arrange transportation to visit a Turtle Sanctuary in the highlands, El Chato Ranch. Frequent buses make getting there easy enough but we saved on multiple stops. Our driver showed us the famous twin craters of Los Gemelos, took us to see the homestead he’s building and waited for us while we walked the Turtle Sanctuary grounds.
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The giant land turtles can grow to 5 feet long and weigh hundreds of pounds. They roamed the highlands freely before the highway bisected their habitat and now the Reserve gives them a permanent home and every reason to stay. We spent nearly two hours exploring the space, looking at displays, having a snack and following several of these slow but fascinating creatures. The ride from town is about 22 kilometers and taxi drivers are happy to negotiate trips with several stops.
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Sharing the trail with a giant turtle at El Chato Sanctuary

Go Diving

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One afternoon we bounced from dive shop to shop, looking for a standard rate and day trips to sites near Puerto Ayora. There are several dive shops in the center of town and we settled on a Seymour Channel dive with Scuba Iguana Galapagos. We checked schedules posted at several and spoke with dive guides. The next day we left our hotel early and rode across the island to a beautiful wooden sailboat to visit Seymour Rock. The site is known for its shark cleaning stations where smaller fish pick at parasites as the large pelagics hang still. It’s wonderful to witness. Just before returning to the boat the dive guide and I held fast to a reef and peered at Hammerheads rushing past in the strong currents.
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If I return to the Galapagos it would be to do more diving and I’d still make Puerto Ayora Island Galapagos Central for the trip. There are renowned dive sites scattered across the archipelago.
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Hiking lava channel trails on Isabel Island

Island Hop by Harbor Boat

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After unsuccessfully trying to book a small flight to Isabel Island, (the flights book weeks in advance) we bought tickets for an inter-island boat ride. The small boat was crammed with visitors, most on vacation from the mainland, and then bounced for two hours through the roiling sea. I pride myself on not getting seasick but that ride tested me. It was worth it.
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Before we got to town, we saw iguanas and sea lions basking near the harbor and hopped a ride into the tiny village. There were few hotels and several guest houses off the small square. Here a bit more research would’ve helped, but we did well enough with a small, clean guest house next to a restaurant.
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There are several sites worth seeing. For hikers trekking the highland volcanic crater is a highlight, but we stayed close to the water first walking to the preserve at the end of town and then shopping for a boat trip to snorkel the lava tubes. The boat trip was a highlight of the trip. Just floating into the channels was an adventure as the jagged landscape surrounded us..First stop took us on to a trail hike to see blue footed boobies and rock formations that could’ve been set pieces in a sci-fi TV show. We then swam through tunnels and past basking baby sharks, bat rays, and turtles in the cool shallows. That night we spied a UK couple we’d met in Puerto Ayora and shared notes over dinner.
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Adult iguana at the port on Santa Cruz island Galapagos

Adult iguana seaside in Puerto Ayora

Swimming with penguins and the iguana rookery

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Before returning to Puerto Ayora we joined a naturalist-led tour and walked through an Iguana Rookery. The odd, young lizards massed together, their heads popping up like wind up toys just before clearing out of our way. Sharks dozed in the channel and then spotted penguins on rocks near the harbor entrance. Who wouldn’t love to swim with penguins? They darted through the water teasing us and always out of camera range.
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There are many other island adventures, tours and hikes throughout the region but making Santa Cruz Island Galapagos Central will reward you with memories and appreciation for this precious part of Ecuador.