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Ferry building from the pier, San Francisco. Photo: John Wolfe via Trover.
Sometimes it’s easy to be so focused and purposeful that you miss the treasures around you. I keep rediscovering that as I travel for work. Recently while in San Francisco for a conference, I was staying at a hotel downtown, and spending long days sitting in meetings and networking. Yoga in the hotel room only went so far. My body was aching for air and space. Walking San Francisco seemed like a perfect idea.
Cable Car working up Powell Street. Photo: Elaine J. Masters
Walking San Francisco: Breakfast edition
When the weather cooperates, San Francisco is a beautiful city for strolling. Between architecture, window displays, cafes and parks, each of the neighborhoods offers rewards for walkers. On that morning foray, I headed uphill from Union Square to get my muscles warmed up. At California Street, I waited for a cable car to cross the intersection.
There was a kiosk at the corner, and I wondered what purpose it served. At 6:45am, a man held court in the small space. Robert’s job was to oversee triggering the mechanism that lifted the cable where the two lines crossed, one going along California Street and the other along Powell from Market to the Marina. “Yes, he said, “Each time the Cable Cars approach the intersection I make sure the lines are aligned.” His job seems quaint in this digital age but is a testament to the city’s dedication to keeping the cable car experience intact.
At the top of Nob Hill is a collection of grand Victorian mansions and luxurious hotels. There’s a small park, and a small group was practicing Tai Chi in reverential slow motion. Grace Cathedral was just starting to bask in the sun as it rose over the East Bay hills. I kept moving, giving my knees a workout as I descended the steep steps back towards my hotel.
The second morning I decided to take one of the Market Street trolleys down to the Embarcadero. The Ferry Building stood in shadow as I started walking towards the Bay Bridge. I wanted to feel what it would be like to stand under the immense girders.
Looking up at the Bay Bridge. Photo: Elaine J. Masters
The city was waking up in spurts. Small groups of joggers slid past. It was Sunday, and street artisans were setting up tables in the Justin Herman Plaza. Few other strollers shared the sidewalk.
Justin Herman Plaza in the San Francisco Embarcadero. Photo: Robert Reiz via Trover
I grabbed a cup of coffee and a croissant at a cafe just after a shop girl placed her placard on the sidewalk. My original intention was to take the trolley back up to the hotel. Fueled and with time on my side, I swiftly crossed the financial district instead, passing designer shops and darkened restaurants. People started emerging into the day just as I entered my lobby with a healthy sense of accomplishment and time to spare before the first meeting started. Walking San Francisco made my day.
Have you ever gotten up early to take a walk on a business or vacation trip?
This post is part of the Hipmunk City Love Project.
I travel to San Francisco often and I am amazed at how many things there are to write about! It is such a multifaceted city. I loved seeing SF through your eyes. I often walk from Union Square to the Ferry Building which takes me through the Financial District to The Embarcadero. The Mission District is a very colorful place to walk as well!
I have a few new places to walk next time based on your insights. Sounds like you’re a marathon walker! I’d love to spend days wandering San Francisco.
It’s been too many years since I was last in San Francisco. I’m not really an early riser, but this post and pictures are having me considering doing the same!
I think you’ll see your destinations in a whole new light (pun intended!)
I am not an early riser but do get up early when I am travelling! mornings are wonderful when on vacation- an especially in the city that still works (while you travel). a fresh perspective on SF indeed!
Thanks, Victoria. Don’t you love the contrasts between day and night in urban neighborhoods too?
I love to explore “home” when you can’t get away. If you’re like us, “home” changes frequently and we always find people that have lived in our new city for years that haven’t explored anything!
It seems like human nature that the only time we check out new things in our home area is when company comes. I really work at seeing new areas and expanding my radius of experiences.
Elaine,
Last time my husband and I visited San Francisco, we stayed in Nob Hill and every day walked to the waterfront or to other areas of the city. We made sure to take a different street up and down every day. We saw so many different sides of the city in that way. When I tell this to some of my friends, they say we are crazy for walking such a long distance. But to me, it was a pleasure to just stroll, discover and stop to take a deeper look if necessary.
I love hearing that you walked San Francisco every day for months. There’s so much that you can only appreciate when on foot. My sister once walked the length of the city from the avenues to the bay in a day with her son and husband. They live in the area and loved every minute. Good exercise too.
Getting up and out the door early is always the way Arnie and Jo: Go. Love being up with the birds and before anybody else is out, with the exception of a baker just opening his doors. The air is fresh, the streets are empty, and its tranquil.
You’ve nailed so many of the reasons I love to get up early. Unfortunately my travel buddy isn’t a morning person but solo strolls are fun too.
San Francisco is such a great city for walking. Our favorite “stroll” starts with a small bite at the Ferry Building then walking down the Embarcadero to Girabaldi Square. It’s a little hike (two miles, maybe?) but a good one…with chocolate at the end!
Very cool. I wanted to do that walk all the way to the Marina but didn’t have the time this last trip. You’ve inspired me!
In my opinion walking is the best way to see a city. I’ve not had the opportunity to spend early morning in San Francisco so I especially appreciate your story. I think I’ve missed out on a part of that city.
Back when we lived in Panama City (Panama, not Florida) my husband Dan and I walked everywhere. While I’ll admit we aren’t early risers, even so we saw many things we would have missed if we’d been in a car – or even on a bus.
So … do you think you’ll do an early morning walk the next time you’re on a business trip?
I love the contrast of walking in the morning as opposed to evening and yes, depending on what I know of a place, I’d walk in the am. I’ll be in Mexico soon and if the opportunity arises (pun intended) I’ll be up early looking around.
Your post is such a refreshing reminder of the timeless charm of San Francisco, Elaine. I absolutely love this city and although so much was written about it, there is always something new to discover when seeing other people’s perspective about it.
Thank you for the kind words, Anda. San Francisco is in my blood with family ties going deep. City’s keep reinventing themselves so there are always new things to discover and in SF it’s always interesting.