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Mysterious beauty in San Diego’s North County
Of all the outdoor attractions scattered across San Diego, none is as unusual or colorful than Queen Califia’s Magical Circle in North County. To come across this huge installation in Kit Carson Park without initiation is dumbfounding. What is this gigantic, mosaic artwork doing here in an isolated spot next to ballparks and picnic benches?
That mystery is part of the charm and also its downfall. One of the last sculptures that the artist, Nicki de St. Phalle created, the 12 acre site was donated by the City of Escondido and had been open since 2003 from sunrise to sunset. Over the years, vandalism and weather took its toll, and the Garden was closed. It recently reopened to the public on the first Saturday of the month from 10 am until 2 pm and by appointment for groups. It’s worth the effort to walk into and through the maze, have your kids climb the textured benches and run hands across the embedded stones.
Like many larger-than-life creative artists, the French-American sculptor was considered controversial. Her pieces are completely unique yet universally relatable. They stand somewhere between cartoon and classic, often drawing on legendary or mythological figures. A prolific artist, St. Phalle most often worked in polymer and lived in San Diego from 1994 to 2002. Like so many, she found the climate ideal. Sadly toxic fumes from working with plastics ultimately led to her death in La Jolla. She won’t be forgotten anytime soon.
Central figure in Queen Calafia’s Magical Garden. Photo – Dave Rudie
Like many larger-than-life creative artists, the French-American sculptor was considered controversial. Her pieces are completely unique yet universally relatable. They stand somewhere between cartoon and classic, often drawing on legendary or mythological figures. A prolific artist, St. Phalle most often worked in polymer and lived in San Diego from 1994 to 2002. Like so many, she found the climate ideal. Sadly toxic fumes from working with plastics ultimately led to her death in La Jolla. She won’t be forgotten anytime soon.
Totems inside Queen Calafia’s Garden – Photo: Dave Rudie
The Garden Revealed
Queen Califia, is a fictional warrior created by the Spanish writer, Garcia Rodriguez de Montalvo, in his popular novel from the year 1500, Las Sergas de Esplandian (Adventures of Esplandian.) The warrior queen was conquered and is often considered the spirit of California, symbolizing the abundant and wild land before the Europeans forcefully claimed it.
That spirit undulates and sparkles in the Escondido Garden. Totem pole-styled towers are set around an inner, circular courtyard. A giant snake wriggles across the top of the boundary wall. There are eggs, giant birds and other creatures drawn from the natural world climbing, flying and etched into the various surfaces. Above them all stands the Queen. You won’t forget her once you see her.
Photo – Derek Abbey, Trover.com
International Connections
Nicki de St. Phalle’s work is unforgettable and in parks and collections across the globe. I’ll always remember the first time I spied one of her pieces. I was driving from Tokyo into the mountainous Hakone area. Suddenly, standing in the middle of a large, green lawn was the figure of a gigantic woman, Miss Black Power, colorful and completely out of place. It was my introduction to St. Phalle’s work and the first hint of the rolling acres of art that lay beyond in the Hakone Open Air Museum. I can’t recommend enough to add spending a day there to your Tokyo itinerary. But until you can explore Japan, there are many of St. Phalle’s sculptures across San Diego County.
Other Nicki de St. Phalle sculptures in San Diego Less Traveled:
Angel hanging in the San Diego Mingei Museum. Photo: Elaine Masters
UCSD Campus
Sun God
Escondido’s Kit Carson Park
Queen Califia’s Magical Circle Garden – Directions: Take I-15 North: East on Via Rancho Parkway, which turns into Bear Valley Parkway. Turn left at Mary Lane into Kit Carson Park. Right on to Amphitheatre Drive, then follow the signs.
Balboa Park
Mingei Museum – Nikigator, Poet and Muse
Hall of Champions – The Baseball Player (Homage to Tony Gwynn)
The Basketball Player (Homage to Michael Jordan)
UCSD Campus
Sun God
San Diego Convention Center
Coming Together
La Jolla-Museum of Contemporary Art
San Diego – Elephant, Mouse
Big Ganesha (behind museum)
Escondido – California Center for the Arts
One cat, two seals
Carlsbad Poinsettia Park
Two large lions
Looking for hotels in San Diego not far from Queen Calafia’s Magical Garden? There are many hotels throughout San Diego County such as the Ramada San Diego.
Find many other San Diego less traveled places and unique events in San Diego at Excursiopedia.com
This post was sponsored but completely inspired by my experience and perspectives.
There’s another statue at the park next to the City Administration Building in downtown San Diego, too!
Thanks Tami, There’s another near the beach in Solana Beach, inside and outside the Mingei Museum in Balboa Park, as well.
What an incredible collections and great photos – definitely beautiful and magical.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed the post.
I have heard before about Queen Califia’s Magical Circle Garden but have never actually seen it. I enjoyed your images and description and hope to get there myself one day.
I hope you can, Carole. It’s definitely worth a visit.
That looks very Gaudi-esque to me, would have thought this was in Barcelona!
It does look like Gaudi only brighter!
Wow that place look awesome…. I love exploring places like this withwith quirky arts. …. its lovely and colourful 🙂
Thanks, Anne, the Garden is one of a kind. A real treasure.
I, too, was thinking that the work was so Gaudi-like so I’m not surprised it helped inspired this work.
Thanks, Irene, Nicki’s work, like all artists, is filtered through all the influences and travels over her lifetime. She’s made those and the medium so strikingly her own.
Completely reminded me of Gaudi’s work – LOVE it! Next time I am in San Diego I will check this out for sure, these are gorgeous mosaic sculptures!
It’s stunning truly. I hope you can see them next time you’re here.
How interesting – I never heard of this place or artist but this garden looks so incredible! It’s a shame that the garden can’t be open more often to visitors, but I’m definitely adding it to my list for next time I’m in the San Diego area!
Hi Laura, It used to be open dawn to dusk but vandals trashed it. Luckily there’s a foundation for upkeep and together with the city they’ve installed security and limited visitors. At least it hasn’t been lost.
That’s so cool. I’ve never been to San Diego, but would love to one day. I’ve heard only good things. I love the totums.
Thanks, Mags. There’s a lot more than beaches and surfing here. I hope you can make it a long visit.
Wish I’d known about this when we were in SD. Next time! We did get to the Botanic Garden and loved it.
The Botanical Garden is a feast for the senses. When you return make an appointment to see the Queen’s site or visit on the one Saturday it’s open to the public.
Thanks for sharing. The sculptures remind me of Gaudi park in Barcelona.
Right you are. Antonio Gaudi was one of St. Phalle’s inspirations although she worked more often in polymer. I’m a big fan of Gaudi’s work and long to return to Barcelona to see more.
This is exactly the kind of unusual stuff you come across in the desert of Southern California and is exactly what makes that area so wonderful. I recently got back from a road trip around the Mojave and this would fit in perfectly with some of the other strange places I came across.
You’re perhaps thinking of the giant metal sculptures near Borrego Hot Springs? I’ll be out there hunting down wildflowers later this spring. Big hobby and annual excursion.
What colourful and interesting sculptures. I love finding the unusual and the “less-travelled” in an area.
Thanks, Donna, I hope you can see more of Nicki de St. Phalle’s pieces for yourself one day.
Hi Elaine! Thank you for sharing this blog. I had no idea such beautiful sculptures existed in Escondido; just another thing to explore in our amazingly diverse county!
Thank you, Dana, I first stumbled across this piece several years ago. Then it was closed. I had no idea how much damage had been done by vandals. Good news is the city and the foundation are working to stop that from ever happening again. Thanks for your comment.