
The current Cliff House looking south.
At the western edge of the continent, the edge of San Francisco, is a promontory – Land’s End. It rises from the mouth of the bay and curls to the south along a steep road to the long beach below. Should the weather favor you, make sure a visit is on your list of things to do in San Francisco.
Temperatures in the Avenues can be bracing and a cold mist hangs over the neighborhood much of the year. On sunny days the area glows, park trails beckon and the Cliff House waits with world-class views, a deep history and fine dining.

Looking up at the Cliff House – Kim Larson via Trover
My ties to the neighborhood started early. My parents would drop by to visit my Aunt and the kids were let loose. A few blocks away sat Sutro Park with its mysterious statues. We’d climb into the concrete edifice that used to house ammunition and make our way across the avenue to stop at Sutro Baths. I barely remember the place standing white and cool that spread out in a series of buildings across the rocky point.
Once inside we’d walk past mummies, Oriental artifacts, a gruesome collection of weapons confiscated from convicts and much more I don’t recall. The pools were still there but off limits. If my older cousin had some cash we’d head down past the Cliff House to Playland by the Sea and slip past the jiggling, mechanical monster, Laughing Sal, ( you can see her at the Musee Mechanique in Fishermans Wharf now) and inside the cavernous Fun House.
Today there are only remnants of Sutro’s. Trails lead through Land’s End and down to waves crashing below. What was once the holding pool for the baths remains with ridges that take hikers close to basking cormorants and oyster catchers. A large parking lot sits at the entrance and there’s a new visitors center. The small café, Louis,’ hasn’t changed much over the decades and it’s a cheaper eating option than the Cliff House but you’d be missing a lot if that’s as far as you venture.
In 1863 developers built the first Cliff House as a destination restaurant for city dwellers to take in dramatic views. Adolph Sutro, German engineer who made a fortune in Silver mining, built the baths in the early 19th century, a park, the Playland and even a small train to move people in and around. Storms and the 1907 earthquake have demolished the building more than once.
Today the Cliff House has been reborn by the Sutro family and trimmed to its original footprint. I was tickled to walk through with a manager and explore some of the history for myself.
For your list of things to do in San Francisco:
- Bring weather proof clothes, especially as the winds can be piercingly cold.
- Stop in at the new visitor center
- Wander the Sutro Bath ruins
- Café Louis, the home of the original It’s It ice cream and cookie bar
- Visit the Cliff House for a drink, dinner or walk around the ample deck to the Camera Obscura (the original Musee Mechanique has moved down to Fisherman’s Wharf – it’s free.)
- Walk north for views of the Golden Gate Bridge from the Land’s End trails. Plan your route with the Park Service guide.
- Find budget accommodations in San Francisco and indulge in a Cliff House dinner.
Written as part of the Hipmunk City Love Project. As always the information and opinions are my own.
I haven’t been there yet to see the new visitor center and I also just heard about a labyrinth at Land’s End. But I did just last weekend visit the Musee Mecanique and saw Laughing Sal.
I missed the labyrinth but have seen pictures. Laughing Sal – so glad she’s still up and running!
The Sutro Baths must have been great to visit in its hayday. Thanks for sharing!
Don’t you just wish you could time-travel back to the glory days of San Francisco?!
What an interesting post! Like most of the others, the Sutro Baths were new to me, so this is definitely “must-see” for the next San Francisco visit. My imagination was running wild with Laughing Sal, though. This mechanical monster would likely have given me nightmares, lol!
Thanks for sharing!
Yes, Laughing Sal could give you shivers but she was so silly too. The pictures on the Musee Mechanique site don’t do her justice.
I enjoyed the sepia photos as well as your stories about exploring the neighborhood with your cousins. The Sutro Baths sound like an interesting place to visit for both the history and view and I’d love to dine at The Cliff House restaurant.
I hope you get a chance to dine at the Cliff House soon.
The Cliff House looks like an incredible place to dine. You present information about San Francisco that I was not familiar with so thanks for that!
It’s an incredible place on many levels. The Cliff House has done a great job of preserving its history framed on the walls.
Wow, I’ve never heard of the Sutro Baths but they look as though they would have been an incredible experience in their day. The Cliff House is a must-stop on my next trip to San Francisco.
That spot is just beautiful in any kind of weather. I hope you get to see it soon.
I’m not sufficiently familiar with San Francisco to have heard of this place either. How fascinating its history is, and I love the way your personal reminiscing was woven into the story. Beautiful, vintage feeling to this post.
Thanks, Betsy, glad you enjoyed the feeling of the post. That’s me, getting vintage!
I am not familiar with the Sutro Baths so loving hearing your story and seeing historical and up to date photographs. Looks like a great place to add to a San Francisco itinerary.
Thanks, Leigh, I think you’d enjoy the hikes at Lands End, just north of the Sutro Baths location.