Inside the ice cave with it’s historic line of sawdust striping across the ceiling.
Interlaken lies between two lakes, serene in a valley dwarfed by giant, snow covered ridges. Charming and bright, the city embodies all that Western visitors dream of when they imagine Switzerland. Many imagine the Matterhorn too, the same that Walt Disney decided would be the perfect model for his theme parks. That lies in the south above Zermatt. The frozen world above Interlaken hides Jungfraujoc, a shoulder of ice between bright, white peaks that can be glimpsed from town on a clear afternoon. It lies at the end of a steep ride, at the ‘top of Europe’, the highest one can venture to by train.
The apex has the coldest annual temperature in Europe. I was prepared for cold, but knowing that made me feel a bit more intrepid. I made it up the series of railways easily enough but when I went to step out onto the viewing platform, the sunlight was deceiving. I couldn’t handle the wind. Where I had been toasty enough before exiting the building, my finger tips grew numb in less than a minute. Still I was lucky, some make the ascent and find only fog shrouded peaks. The views were electrifying – snowy peaks, vast glaciers and crevasses, a world unlike any I’d ever seen before.
Guide Erika pointing out one of the rail lines up to the Top of Europe
The train ride up to the Top of Europe
…is a combination of cog and quiet, clean hydroelectric power. Industrialist Adolph Guyer-Zimmer had dreamed of blasting through the rocky summits of Eiger and Monch to build a cog-wheel train to the summit. He sketched out his ideas in 1893 but passed away before the peak was conquered. At the start, in 1896 more than 100 Italian laborers were enlisted to work in the harsh conditions. They blasted, picked and struck at one point for better wages. In 1899 a blasting accident claimed 6 lives. While adventurous climbers attempt the ascent, for most a comfortable ride with a warm lunch, first class or casual, is available at the crest.
I met my guide for the day inside the Hotel du Nord. Erika’s been a guide for five years after retiring. Very slim and fit, it’s clear that she loves her work explaining and helping guests around the Interlaken mountain system. The first train took us out of town just before 7 am but was packed with tourists all the same. The day was clear and cold as sun crept across dark peaks. As our ascent began we watched the morning light strike the mountain tops.
Our train ran silent and smooth, lacing up white valleys full of fresh snow. The powder, the sun, were magnets and soon skiers were seen skittering over tracks with abandon. I spied an old tunnel that was a remnant of WW2 and now, instead of storing munitions, it stores mountain cheese. There are over 20,000 old bunkers which once held arms, troops, and today are storehouses for peacetime, some are used for events, some are high tech installations. This is the ‘life inside the mountain” or ‘reduit’ as Erika said. We passed it quickly, climbing up higher and higher. Outside of Interlaken there were several smaller villages where hostels and small pensions serve those wanting to be closer to ski runs and budget-minded, adventure travelers.
Ride along in this video:
Near the Beginners Slopes – just my speed!
It was exhilarating to step out inside caves near the summit to acclimate a bit to the altitude and glance across the frosty cliffs. Large windows shielded us from dancing snow, sheer rock cliffs and icy pinnacles.
The frozen world spied from a tunnel near the Top of Europe
Feeling the altitude, I moved slowly to wander the attractions at the summit, 11,783 feet/3571 meters high. The train cars opened to elevators we entered a hall with a casual coffee bar where skiers and hikers began preparations for the long descent.
Visiting with Heidi’s Grandpa inside the Alpine Sensation displays
The ‘Tour’ led us to the Alpine Sensation with it’s references to Heidi, a Swiss childrens’ story, a historical panorama glimpsed from a moving sidewalk with film clips and animation. The memorial to Adolph Guyer-Zimmer is centered in a dome with his likeness climbing out of rock – chilling, wondrous and very creative. A replica of his original sketch is etched in the floor.
The dreamer, Adolph Guyer-Zimmer, founder of the Jungfrau train system.
We moved onto the ice cave. It was originally created by two mountain guides who must have had time on their hands. Now it covers over 1000 meters and walking through the passages, it’s easy to imagine what exploring a crevasse would be like. I was surrounded by icy blues and grey. Some were striped where guides decades ago had scattered wood chips on the surface of the glacier. Those chips are now compressed into a wandering line, deep in the glacial ice. The dynamic ice is deceivingly solid as it moves up to 15 centimeters each year and the cave has to be re-carved again and again. Crystal sculptures are arranged in niches. Carved in a valley studio they are transported by train to the summit, as all things are at the Top of Europe.
Ice sculptures inside the Jungfraujoc ice cave
I fell for a mountain quartz ring in the gift shop and then Erika introduced me to the country’s soda, Rivella, at lunch as we watched skiers descend the Aletsch glacier expanse below. Of course I couldn’t resist a cup of coffee and a chocolate shaped like the mountain, snowy peak and all.
I can’t imagine a more wondrous and comfortable day exploring an icy world, riding trains past sunny expanses of fresh snow, eating and drinking with great company, and coming home at the end of it all with an abiding amazement at how much beauty there is in Switzerland, at the Top of Europe.
The plateau at the Top of Europe
If you go to the Top of Europe:
Consider using the Swiss Travel Pass to explore Switzerland. It allows you to take buses, trains and boats across the country. Very easy!
Prepare well for cold when venturing to the Top of Europe. Dressing in thin layers with a wind-proof coat and insulated shoes made this beach girl wandering the Alps very comfortable.
This was a solo trip! Switzerland is so easy to navigate. There are staffed information booths at every train, airport and bus station. I’ll write about that in another post.
My trip was hosted by Swiss Travel System and Discover Interlaken. Thanks also to the Hotel du Nord and to my guide, Erika, for her patience and company.
I hope that you enjoyed the tour. Share and pin!
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Such an amazing experience you had! I haven’t been to Jungfraujoch yet, but I’ve spent quite some time in the region and I love it. It’s so beautiful – the mountains, the alpine villages, the views… it’s one of my favourite regions of Switzerland. 🙂 BTW, I couldn’t help but notice few spelling errors of the name of the Top of the Europe – it’s spelled Jungfraujoch. 😉
Welcome, Urska, nice to hear that you love the region too. I’ve heard several ways to spell the name and that the mountain is called Jungfrau but the saddle in between is the Jungfraujoch. I’ll check on corrections.
I love Switzerland! This is amazing trip, we made it a few years ago and were skiing there this year. Just a note – the last train station and saddle between Jungfrau and Mönch mountains is called Jungfraujoch. 😉
Ah the magic of the snow! I was in Switzerland before Christmas and I have to admit magic and disney and all things fairy tale have the real-life size version there
I was concerned about being in the cold but a good coat, careful packing, great boots kept me more than comfy – except for that one fleeting moment at the summit plateau. Hot chocolate was never far away!
Hi Aditi, I was there in early March. Summer would definitely be more crowded. Still if you venture up to the top early, say the first train, as I did at Spring break time, you might miss the biggest crunch.
What a wonderful way to spend a day in Switzerland! I especially love the ice caves, it always amazes me how detailed the carvings can be. Lots of work to re-carve the cave year after year. Thank you for linking up with #WeekendWanderlust
Wow! This looks absolutely amazing!!! I almost headed off to Switzerland years ago but the trip didn’t push through. But for sure, I’m planning to step foot here and I’d love to check out this area.
What a great experience – and you can say you got to go to the top of the world! The mountains are incredible and Switzerland is just so beautiful. Thank you for sharing your journey!
Thanks, Vicki. I can say I made it to the ‘Top of Europe’ not the world. There are higher summits but unreachable by train or for non-climbers. Nevertheless, I was thrilled to get that far.
Isn’t this a great place to visit? I loved Jungfraujoch! We even took a short hike (which seemed endless because of the altitude) to the nearest cabin up on the top. The ice exhibit was very unique too.
What a wonderful way to spend the day! I’m not a fan of the cold, but for views like that, I think I could handle it. And what a cute little chocolate! 😉
I’m a big dark chocolate fan so that little peak was pure delight. Most chocolate served in Switzerland is lighter, milk chocolate. They love their milk!
What an experience! I enjoyed reading about industrialist Adolph Guyer-Zimmer. It’s a pity he didn’t see his plans come to fruition and the blasting accident was very unfortunate.
It’s shocking, but despite the fact that I’m Swiss and lived for 46 years in Switzerland, I only made it to the Kleine Scheidegg as the ticket price exceeded our family’s budget with our four kids. The “Jungfraujoch” is certainly stunning, especially if you consider the dangerous conditions they had to deal with to build the vehicular. #TheWeeklyPostcard
I can understand a family budget. Lucky for me this was a solo trip and I had some help. It’s human nature too it seems, to not explore your own ‘backyard’ as much as a tourist. I find that in Southern California as well.
The Swiss definitely love their trains! We had a similar experience a few months ago in Zermatt, where we got to take a train up the mountain which gave us a perfect view of the famous Matterhorn. 🙂
This sounds like a really enjoyable and exciting day! You mention you felt the altitude: did you find it very uncomfortable? I remember feeling a bit light headed above 3000 but I don’t think I ever went as high as 3500
Altitude definitely affects me. I didn’t feel light-headed but noticed it was harder to breathe. Since then a nurse has suggested that drinking as much water as possible helps. If I was staying longer I would have.
What a fun adventure in Switzerland! Actually, the first mountaintop I ever visited was in the Swiss Alps. I’m not sure exactly where it was, as I was a teenager on an educational three-week jaunt through six European countries at that time. I just remember we traveled by gondola up to the top, and even though it was early July, the summit was snowy, blustery and cold. The view wasn’t nearly as clear as one you describe, but at least I was lucky that it wasn’t foggy enough to hide the other mountains. Since then, I’ve taken the cog rail up to Pikes Peak of the US Colorado Rockies. That was a relaxing way to travel up to the summit, and I’d recommend it if you are ever visiting Colorado. Once you reach the summit, which inspired the “America the Beautiful” poem, you can eat a doughnut that was made at 14,115-feet (4,302.31 m) in elevation! It’s a pretty good doughnut, too.
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Such an amazing experience you had! I haven’t been to Jungfraujoch yet, but I’ve spent quite some time in the region and I love it. It’s so beautiful – the mountains, the alpine villages, the views… it’s one of my favourite regions of Switzerland. 🙂
BTW, I couldn’t help but notice few spelling errors of the name of the Top of the Europe – it’s spelled Jungfraujoch. 😉
Welcome, Urska, nice to hear that you love the region too. I’ve heard several ways to spell the name and that the mountain is called Jungfrau but the saddle in between is the Jungfraujoch. I’ll check on corrections.
Switzerland has so much to offer the visitor. This looks like a wonderful day trip. Was your chocolate filled with something special?
Thanks, Linda, you’re right about Switzerland being full of wonderful experiences. My chocolate was a deep, dark mousse bliss.
I love Switzerland! This is amazing trip, we made it a few years ago and were skiing there this year.
Just a note – the last train station and saddle between Jungfrau and Mönch mountains is called Jungfraujoch. 😉
Thanks for catching that! How lucky you were to go skiing there too!
I’ve been to Jungfrau and I loved it. I also stayed in a Chalet in Lauterbrunnen. Gosh, gotta love the area.
I didn’t stay in Lauterbrunnen but passed by. Andermatt was my favorite village.
Ah the magic of the snow! I was in Switzerland before Christmas and I have to admit magic and disney and all things fairy tale have the real-life size version there
Truly charming. I would’ve loved to be in Switzerland during the Holiday season. Definitely magical, I imagine.
Looks like a chilly adventure! I’m not much for snow, but it looks beautiful.
I was concerned about being in the cold but a good coat, careful packing, great boots kept me more than comfy – except for that one fleeting moment at the summit plateau. Hot chocolate was never far away!
Lovely travelogue! It must have been an exhilarating feeling to be on top! 🙂 The ice cave also seems spectacular!!
When did you go? We are planning a trip in June but fear it will be too crowded then…?
Hi Aditi, I was there in early March. Summer would definitely be more crowded. Still if you venture up to the top early, say the first train, as I did at Spring break time, you might miss the biggest crunch.
What a wonderful way to spend a day in Switzerland! I especially love the ice caves, it always amazes me how detailed the carvings can be. Lots of work to re-carve the cave year after year. Thank you for linking up with #WeekendWanderlust
Ice carving art is a fine craft. Luckily these in the ice cave don’t melt! Most are so fleeting. I love the Weekend Wanderlust linkup.
Wow! This looks absolutely amazing!!! I almost headed off to Switzerland years ago but the trip didn’t push through. But for sure, I’m planning to step foot here and I’d love to check out this area.
I so hope you do visit, Aileen. It was staggering beautiful. Not as inexpensive as Asia but worth experiencing.
It’s beautiful! My kids would love the ice sculptures. Thanks for the tip to get the Swiss Travel Pass. It always helps to save money!
Your kids would love so much about Jungfrauroc with all the displays, the chocolate store and more. The Swiss Travel Pass is a great way to go.
What a great experience – and you can say you got to go to the top of the world! The mountains are incredible and Switzerland is just so beautiful. Thank you for sharing your journey!
Thanks, Vicki. I can say I made it to the ‘Top of Europe’ not the world. There are higher summits but unreachable by train or for non-climbers. Nevertheless, I was thrilled to get that far.
Isn’t this a great place to visit? I loved Jungfraujoch! We even took a short hike (which seemed endless because of the altitude) to the nearest cabin up on the top. The ice exhibit was very unique too.
How lucky you were to be able to hike to the upper cabin! It was off limits in the winter cold. I’m glad to know you saw the exhibits and all too.
What a wonderful way to spend the day! I’m not a fan of the cold, but for views like that, I think I could handle it. And what a cute little chocolate! 😉
I’m a big dark chocolate fan so that little peak was pure delight. Most chocolate served in Switzerland is lighter, milk chocolate. They love their milk!
What an experience! I enjoyed reading about industrialist Adolph Guyer-Zimmer. It’s a pity he didn’t see his plans come to fruition and the blasting accident was very unfortunate.
Quite a feat and I was happy to see Adolph immortalized inside his inspiring building. I hope his spirit looks down and smiles!
It looks cold out there! What a beautiful place though. I don’t really ski, but I’d go up there just to see what it’s like at the top of Europe.
It was crazy cold!! Not much of a skier either but watching what fun skiers were having made me with otherwise.
It’s shocking, but despite the fact that I’m Swiss and lived for 46 years in Switzerland, I only made it to the Kleine Scheidegg as the ticket price exceeded our family’s budget with our four kids. The “Jungfraujoch” is certainly stunning, especially if you consider the dangerous conditions they had to deal with to build the vehicular. #TheWeeklyPostcard
I can understand a family budget. Lucky for me this was a solo trip and I had some help. It’s human nature too it seems, to not explore your own ‘backyard’ as much as a tourist. I find that in Southern California as well.
The Swiss definitely love their trains! We had a similar experience a few months ago in Zermatt, where we got to take a train up the mountain which gave us a perfect view of the famous Matterhorn. 🙂
That must’ve been incredible and yes, the Swiss train system knocked me out. What efficiency, ecological progressive and engineering prowess!
This sounds like a really enjoyable and exciting day! You mention you felt the altitude: did you find it very uncomfortable? I remember feeling a bit light headed above 3000 but I don’t think I ever went as high as 3500
Altitude definitely affects me. I didn’t feel light-headed but noticed it was harder to breathe. Since then a nurse has suggested that drinking as much water as possible helps. If I was staying longer I would have.
What a fun adventure in Switzerland! Actually, the first mountaintop I ever visited was in the Swiss Alps. I’m not sure exactly where it was, as I was a teenager on an educational three-week jaunt through six European countries at that time. I just remember we traveled by gondola up to the top, and even though it was early July, the summit was snowy, blustery and cold. The view wasn’t nearly as clear as one you describe, but at least I was lucky that it wasn’t foggy enough to hide the other mountains. Since then, I’ve taken the cog rail up to Pikes Peak of the US Colorado Rockies. That was a relaxing way to travel up to the summit, and I’d recommend it if you are ever visiting Colorado. Once you reach the summit, which inspired the “America the Beautiful” poem, you can eat a doughnut that was made at 14,115-feet (4,302.31 m) in elevation! It’s a pretty good doughnut, too.
So glad to hear you’ve been to the Alps. I’ll remember that cog wheel summit ride in Colorado and ‘America, the Beautiful.’