
Travel Jordan and don’t miss the Citadel atop Amman’s highest hill.
A camel stood alongside the highway while, between the road and small fields, circles of people sat eating beneath dusky, olive trees. A row of bright flags flapped above an overpass and a blue sign in Arabic unmistakably advertised IKEA. These were my first minutes in the Middle East. I soon learned that when you travel Jordan you dance constantly between ancient traditions and new world buzz. travel Jordan

Bridge crossing while approaching Amman
Soon we crossed through an intersection as a clutch of sheep poured over a roadside meridian. That scene repeated itself dozens of times in the ten days while I traveled through Jordan. The Amman road led through low valleys, the Wadi, and up into hills, Jabal, then through neighborhoods that bore their names.

One of the Street signs in Amman
A historical glimpse of Amman
The city is laid out over seven hills, then it expanded to 27, and today across the metropolis, layers of civilizations peel back in surprising glimpses. Jabal Amman, the tallest hill, was settled in Neolithic times and never fortified as the lower hills were. Waves of invasions left their marks. Roman Greco ruins still dot the country, many wait for excavation still.
Ottomans swept in to establish a route to Mecca. Centuries later the British sought influence in the region. Their legacy remains in the writings and admiration of T.E. Lawrence and his novel, Lawrence of Arabia. Finally, while other Middle Eastern countries shift allegiances, and through all the upheavals, the Bedouin tribes preserved their independence.
Amman becomes the capital
In the 19th century, Amman was named the capital of Transjordan and the city soon swelled in wealth and position. With two million visitors in 2014, Amman made it to lists of the 100 most visited cities in the world and it became the 5th most visited Arab city.
Safe and protected when you travel Jordan
I never felt uncomfortable while traveling Jordan. We passed through security fortifications and metal-detectors at western-style hotels, and then quickly passed through military checkpoints on the highways. Jordan is determined to remain stable and safe. After recent shootings and the rattling, political circus in the US, traveling Jordan was peaceful and calm.
It took me more than fifteen hours to get to Jordan from San Diego. Make sure you don’t miss a thing on your trip. Overcome Jet Lag from long flights with
these suggestions from my earlier post. I won’t travel without the strategies.

The Sugar Cane Juice shop in downtown Amman

Shop styles in downtown Amman
Our guide, Ramzi, led us to downtown and into the Souk, the streets of shops. It was a busy, Friday night with families and foreign visitors sharing the sidewalks. Lit dramatically, dotted with clusters of people, the Roman Amphitheater rolled back from the street. A man lifted a box of flatbreads, laying out tempting stacks on a folding table. Teenagers jumped to loud music. Women, wrapped in full dark cloth from head-to-toe, raised cellphones to take pictures. Our group dressed casually and walked through it all.

Friday night in the Roman Amphitheater plaza in downtown Amman
A faint call flowed out of an alley and then rose more loudly into my consciousness. It was the call to prayer – another first. We passed trays of spices, stacks of sweets, a Shwarma tower sliced with a sword, a sugar cane juice press, and offers of tea. I wanted to stop by the dress shops and get something beautiful that I’d never wear, but we kept moving until the crowds thinned on the second hill.



Inside Sufra, the Amman garden restaurant
Shops lined the street and small cafes. We entered a softly lit dining room inside a walled garden. This was
Sufra and our table was soon stacked with small plates, bowls, and platters. Lemonade thick with ground mint leaves, sweet sage tea, and baskets of warm bread found their place. In an open alcove adjacent to the dining room, a man stood over a round, ceramic oven. He pummeled dough and used a flat pillow to knock it onto the sides. I’ve no doubt he made hundreds during his shift.

Inside the palace of Jordan’s Amman Citadel

Jordanian bagpipers lead students in Amman

Amman students pose at the Citadel
Getting to the Citadel early was a great strategy. At the top of Amman’s highest hill are two giant pillars, they’re all that remains of the Roman Temple of Hercules and the area was nearly vacant as we wandered. Emperor Marcus Aurelius (AD 161-80) erected the columns and temples.
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I heard a surprising drone – bagpipes! (They were most likely developed in the Jordanian region, although the British claim responsibility for their appearance here.) The bagpipers led a group of young students on their way to the steps of the Umayyad Palace Plaza. Teachers soon wrangled them into position for class pictures.


Two of the oldest human statues, 7250 BC, inside the Jordan Museum.
I was drawn to two rough figures inside the museum. They are the Ain Ghazal Statues, dated back to 7250 B.C. and considered some of the oldest statues ever found. The small museum is well worth a visit with overstuffed cases, skulls, goblets, and statues.
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After wandering the grounds, marveling at the old palace, courtyards and views we left the metropolis of Amman for the wilds of the Dana Biosphere Reserve and a candle-lit eco-lodge set in a hilly divide of Wadi Feynan. More about that adventure to come!

One lobby in the Grand Hyatt Lobby

Lobby fountain inside the Marriott Amman
When you travel Jordan consider these hotels:
Thank you to the Jordanian Tourism Board and IFWTWA, who made my first visit to the Middle East so wonderful. All photos and opinions are my own.
I hope you enjoyed this short tour of Amman, Jordan. Please share!



Can vistors still wander around the Citadel ruins after the park closes for the day?
I believe that the site is closed to the public after dark but there are special events that might make it possible to stay after sundown. I hope you visit Jordan.
What a wonderful description of a first visit to Jordan. It is a great city. We were most impressed by the Jordan Museum; I felt so lucky to be able to visit
Yes, I feel lucky too. The museum was fascinating, small and a bit old-fashioned. I loved it!
Your writing and photos are incredible – I felt as if I was with you on this journey and can almost taste and hear what you were experiencing.
That is so incredible that you were able to stand so close to columns and temples erected by the famous Marcus Aurelius!
Thanks so much, Nancy. Glad you were with me on the virtual journey.
The contrast of Old and New sounds like a visual feast. I love the modern bridge in your approach to Amman. Jordan was never on my bucket list, Now when I get to the middle east, you have inspired me to visit Amman. Is a guide necessary to get around and for safety?
No, a guide isn’t necessary. I was there on a tour which made it easy to get around.
As I’ve commented before we loved our time in Jordan. I would love to return and spend a night in the Wadi Rum at one of the wonderful camps, another at Petra to see that magical area both in daylight and dark. . .oh such wonderful memories you’ve sparked. I am ready to return!
I’d love to spend more time in Wadi Rum too.
I’ve only been to Petra – Amman looks amazing! The bagpipes are so random, haha. Jordan does seem like a great place to visit in the Middle East at the moment, compared to its neighbouring countries :/
Jordan is certainly a calm center in the Middle East. I loved seeing the region from that perspective.
Exploring the Souk would definitely be my favourite part of exploring Amman! And that lemonade in the restaurant sounds heavenly 🙂 Definitely not a spot to be missed when traveling to Jordan!
I could’ve spent days wandering that district and sampling the different restaurants.
It’s so interesting to hear about the growth of Amman. Seven hills to 27 to even more! So interesting. That Roman Amphitheater is absolutely beautiful. I love those archaeological sites. The food sounds absolutely phenomenal as well! I can see why Amman is a great place to start any trip to Jordan.
Thanks, Paige. It seems the city is expanding to cover even more hills too.
I visited Jordan so long ago, and I enjoyed viewing your images showing how it looks today. One on my fondest memories is of having a typical middle Eastern dinner in a secluded compound, and another is of seeing a local family having a picnic on the side of the road.
You know what I was talking about. I hope you return one day, Carole.
Thx for this lovely post on Jordan, Elaine. I would love to visit the amphitheatre in Amman.
Thank you, Doreen. The amphitheater was a surprise on a Friday night. Lots of sweets to investigate but not much chocolate.
I would love to travel to Jordan – sites like Petra and the dead sea were higher on my list than Amman, I’ll admit to thinking I would just use it as a port to get to other areas, but you’ve changed my perspective and convinced me it’s worth staying before exploring further. Sounds more rich in history than Rome! Amazing that you’ve still got ruins in this region which haven’t been excavated yet.
How crazy to have heard bagpipes coming from the Citadel lol I would have been confused for a minute too! It does sound like a very culturally rich, and diverse city though.
Yes, Petra is very special and huge. Definitely, the ruins are plentiful and give Rome some competition.
Jordan seems like an awesome travel destination and Amman an amazing starting point, Elaine. When would be the best time of the year to explore Jordan?
I’m no expert on the best time of year to visit Jordan but we were there in October and the weather, even in the desert areas, was temperate.
Wow, what a fascinating destination! I love how you painted a picture of what it was like to be introduced to Jordan’s unique mix of ancient and modern. I felt as though I was right there with you ( minus the 15 hour flight)
Thank you, Michele. It’s a special place and really has me curious about the other countries in the area.
I think Amman is the perfect place to be introduced to the Middle East – as you said it, it’s a mix of ancient and modern, so colorful and able to satisfy all your senses!
Thanks, Bistra. Jordan has so much to explore whatever your preferences are as a traveler.
What a beautiful overview of Amman. The Sugar Cane Juice shop looks delicious. Loved that you shared so much history and how the worlds of old and new are intersecting in modern Jordan.
Thanks, Alexa. It was so interesting to see all the different aspects of the country.
Ahh Jordan! I’ve been wanting to visit ever since I saw Petra in NatGeo magazine. Your post and photos here make me want to pack right now. Yes, it would be interesting to do that same dance between ancient traditions and the new world. Thanks for sharing your wonderful experience and saw that you love shopping too!
Ha Ha! aAd yes, I would’ve loved to poke around the shops more. Petra definitely needs to be experienced in person!!
Ha Ha! and yes, I would’ve loved to poke around the shops more. Petra definitely needs to be experienced in person!!
What a great trip! I love the food from this region, it’s some of my favorite. The bagpipes were startling to me, but of course they would have origins here. Thank you for sharing.
The food was incredible. So fresh and delicious. Bagpipes and goat skins are related I think!
I’ve only visited Petra, Wadi Rum and the Red Sea coast, and I can recommend them all, but I’d love to go back and see Amman and some of the desert castles. I’m looking forward to more installments about this trip!
Thank you, Rachel. I hope you get the chance to see more of Jordan one day.
Beautifully written! How amazing to hear bagpipes too, as a Scots i’d have loved that.
Thank you for the kind words, Nicola. You’d love the bagpipes echoing through the ruins.
I’ve always had great curiosity about Jordan, especially with its history and rich culture. So I’m thrilled to hear that you felt so safe and enjoyed your time there so much. The Jordan Museum sounds amazing – I’d love to see those ancient statues in person! Thank you for the writeup – from food to history to modern day vibe – it’s super helpful as we’re considering where to head next!
I hope you get to Jordan. There’s so much to explore. I have dozens of stories…
I’ve always wanted to go to Jordan for a longer trip than just to see Petra (which I did 10 years ago). I always thought it wouldn’t be possible to drink yourself around there, but from everything I’ve read lately, including this post, it’s perfectly safe and straight forward to take a road trip there. So good to see other’s accounts of this. It’s encouraging.
I’ve heard of people driving and found the roads to be very good overall. I’d love to do it myself!
This brought back few memories of my time spent living in Dubai. Would love to visit Amman someday. the Roman Amphitheater looks really cool.
Must’ve been wonderful to live in Dubai for a while. I can imagine living in Jordan too.
Would love to visit Jordan one day and this does seem like a great place to start, flirting with new and old! I’m a little surprised to hear that you have to pass through metal detectors through even at hotels, but I’m glad to hear that there’s extra security for your safety! Thanks for linking up with #TheWeeklyPostcard!
The security was surprising at first but we felt very safe throughout the journey. The country was so welcoming and beautiful.
I would love to visit Jordan! I haven’t been to the Middle East yet and I feel that Jordan would be a great place to start. It seems so exotic and culturally rich. Great write up and photos!
Thank you, Arienne. It was a trip of a lifetime. I’m glad you enjoyed the post.
Amman is in my dream list for a long time now. The range of doable activities is interesting. Shopping there would be a must for me. The Roman amphitheatre seems to be in a good condition. Well lit and worth a photograph.
Amman is fascinating and we didn’t see enough of it. The ruins were so surprising! You’d love exploring Jordan.
Thanks for a bit of history on this city and impressions of the old and new. I have heard that Jordan is very safe to travel in.
Yes, it was definitely my experience that Jordan was safe. I’m sure in the big cities, as all over the world, there would be neighborhoods tourists should avoid but we didn’t experience any problems. I’d return in a heart beat.
My husband and I were just talking last week about Jordan. We would like to go visit both Israel and Jordan this coming spring. I’m glad you gave me so much information about Amman. I wonder if my husband could use his drone in any of these two countries. Filming with drones is now his newest passion.
I’m so jealous that you have a drone! When you go to Israel and Jordan look into the border requirements. There are several Middle Eastern countries that make it difficult to visit when crossing in from Israel.
This looks absolutely amazing!! Jordan is really on my to-see list!!
#WeekendWanderlust
Thank you, Esther. I hope you get there sooner than later.
This is beautifully-written. I keep hearing about Jordan, and have been interested in using as my first trip to the middle east. It’s still a couple of years away, but this eases my perpetually-on mind a bit. Thanks for sharing your thoughts!
I hope you get to Jordan, Max. It’s a wonderful first stop and there’s much to do whether you’re into adventure or luxury or in-between.