Slovakians often think of their country as the center of Europe. It’s a historical claim but most travelers miss Slovakia completely and, center of Europe or not, they’re missing out. There are so many things to do in Slovakia!
I was there for a week driving through the countryside with a local. Yuri was helping my family find long-lost relatives. DNA travel some call it, and it was a wonderful lens to see the country through. Being hosted by a native, who knew the countryside well, led to all kinds of unique experiences. Here’s some of the best:
Bus travel is comfortable and efficient
There are (1) tourist buses (Euro Bus and Flix Bus, to name two) which make getting in and out of Slovakia easy. I traveled via Flixbus from Budapest to Kosice and out again to Zagreb, Croatia. Each was a fairly long ride but the seats were plush and had foot-rests. I had either a full row of seats to myself or the interesting company of international travelers. Each bus had a strong WiFi signal but no power plugs. Although the bus had no bathroom, there was a snack and bathroom break during the ride. Crossing the border into Croatia was a mere formality as well but delays are determined by politics. Ask your driver what to expect – you definitely will need a passport or inter-border card.
KOSICE is full of things to do
This medieval city is a traveler’s delight. Whether you travel in high style (modern, historic or chain hotels and sleekly designed restaurants, well-curated museums and art galleries) or you’re backpacking, (hostels, inexpensive cafes, and bars) you’ll find lots of things to do. My next post will detail bars and restaurants in the area.
Farmer’s Market
We arrived by bus about 10 pm and took a pleasant ten-minute walk into the center of town. After passing the (2) Gothic Cathedral, we found our small hotel easily (Villa Regia.) The next morning outside the hotel entrance, long rows of tables were set up for a (3) farmer’s market and I do mean farmer’s. For several hundred years this marketplace has been feeding the city. On Sundays, we found it turns into an (3b) antique and artisan’s market.
Singing Fountain
There’s a central, (4) ‘singing’ fountain that’s lit beautifully in the evenings and music fills the air. Families and couples stroll the main street. (5) Cafes open on the lengthy pedestrian plaza. Many (6) museums are set along that avenue and easy to get to. (7) During the day, a tourist ‘train’ runs the length of the main street shuttling visitors from one end to the other.
Gothic Cathedral
The towering, Gothic cathedral, St. Elizabeth Minster, is the most eastern in Europe and for a few Euro you can climb the north tower to admire the view. Church bells ring out daily and on Sundays, services are packed with locals.
Plan on spending your evenings strolling the historical core. Pull up a seat at one of the sidewalk cafe/bars for great people watching and don’t miss the historical bars or the odd (8) coffee houses like the stylish, Smelly Cat, or Tabacka Kulturfabrik, which is a coffeeshop/hangout/performance space in an old industrial building.
HUMENNE
One of the largest towns outside of Kosice, (9) Humenne, is set among rolling hills near the volcanic Vihorlat mountains. Two rivers, the Laborec and Cirocha, meet there which makes it a wonderful city for strolling and parks. There are several hotels in the city but we elected to make it a day trip.
One day on the road to Humenne, we stopped in Brekov at the (10) Roadhouse, Dvor pod Vinicnou skalou (which roughly translates to Justice Under Rock.) It’s a very interesting road stop and one of the only places where you can order cabbage rolls. The restaurant and grounds are dotted with unique, carved sculptures by the celebrated Polish artist, Marian Pazucha.
In Humenne proper, the central pedestrian plaza is very wide and dotted with sculptures from Communist days. Our lunch prepared us for an afternoon investigating the (11) open-air, architectural museum.
If only I could show you the gleaming icons inside the wooden Greek Catholic church, but no pictures were allowed. You can get an idea of how stunning they are by visiting the manor house. If you get to Humenne, negotiate to have the park church opened to see for yourself. It was built in 1745 on the borders between Slovakia and Ukraine in the village of Nová Sedlica. During WWII the church was badly damaged. With a restoration, it was moved to the open air museum in 1977.
Vihorlatske Museum
We caught glimpses of several ancient castles in the hills on the way to Humenne. Once these bastions of security kept the villagers safe from marauders, Goths and other invading hordes. After gunpowder was available, the great families moved into town and the remote castle culture came to a close.
Luckily the Humenne (12) manor house has survived and visitors are welcome to walk through the grounds and hallways. It’s full of antiques, collections, natural history exhibits and religious art.
With so many things to do in the countryside, a visit to the capital of Bratislava will have to wait. I wish there had been time to see the capital city where Viennese and Hungarian culture mingle but it will have to be another time.
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Slovakia looks like it hasn’t changed in centuries. I’d love to explore here.
Much of the country hasn’t changed and much has shifted. I’m pulling together a post about the great food and drink spots in Kosice.
Oh so much to see and do. Koscie looks like my kinda town! Love the historical towns to visit
It has a wonderful, relaxed vibe and there’s much to see and do.
Wow, I did the opposite. Saw Bratislava as part of a Danube River cruise and skipped the rest of the country.
All the more reason to return and go inland!
Reading your post, we realized we really don’t know much about Slovakia! We love the architecture in your photos, and that fountain is beautiful. We are eager now to learn more about the country! Thanks for the inspiration! #TheWeeklyPostcard
You’re so welcome. I was only there for four days – packed full of wandering, eating and drinking.
I’ve heard so much good things about Slovakia and this got me convinced! It really looks lovely out there! And I really love the gothic style of that cathedral!
The Cathedral is a gem. The village as well. So much to enjoy.
There’s always so much charm about Europe. Slovakia is another speical place that I want to visit. Thanks for sharing!
You are so welcome. I’d return in a heartbeat!
To be honest I never really thought of visiting Slovakia but since reading your post I am convinced. Such deep history and beautiful scenery. Instantly adding it to my list!
Thanks, Anita. There’s much to see and explore in Slovakia.
It s great to see these photos. Kosice (Kassa) was a Hungarian city until 1919. It’s population is still predominantly Hungarian today. Although, we Hungarians dont know much about it, becuase it is in another country today. It is great to see that it is a beautiful place.
So much history and the presence of Hungary and the Soviets still color many aspects of what I encountered. It was wonderful to get a glimpse of all the layers, especially coming from my young country, the US.
We spent the month of May in the Czech Republic and vowed that our next trip would be to either Hungary or Slovakia so your post was perfectly timed as well as a vote for Slovakia! Your wonderful photos of Kosice show a lively town filled with many things to see and do. St. Elisabeth’s Cathedral looks beautiful and I love the idea of sitting by the singing fountain and people watching. Thanks for the guided tour and intro to this beautiful city!
How wonderful to have spent a month in the Czech Republic. So much to see and do in that part of the world! I hope you do visit Slovakia.
This post got me excited about visiting Slovakia. Košice looks like a charming city. I would love to stroll through that farmers market, relax and people watch in a cafe, and check out the museums. Love your pictures!
The market was such a wonderful surprise. There’s so much more to share to see and do!
What a nice look at the Slovakian countryside, an area I don’t often read about. I went to Bratislava a few years back (which I really liked), but we did a guided hike in the countryside in the Carpathian Mountains which was amazing. Our local guide was super friendly and we learned a ton about Slovakian history and culture. Definitely a place more people should see!
I’d love to visit the Carpathian mountains one day. I’m convinced that traveling with a local guide is the best way to see a country where you don’t speak the language!
I love bus travel in Eastern Europe. It was very helpful and so so affordable! Even train travel was cheaper but bus you can actually see the countryside and enjoy it slower.
I wanted to take trains in Croatia and Kosice but the lines in Croatia especially are unreliable! So many people recommended the bus and it was a great way to see the country and relax.
I kind of like that they don’t let you take photos in places like the Greek Catholic church, means you just have to go and experience it for yourself! Great suggestions 🙂
I know that experience was important but the church is no longer functioning and the guide spoke only in Slovakian. The icons just glowed.
I had just a single day in Bratislava. Your pics and descriptions make me feel I have missed a lot.
The musical fountain is a great idea. And farmer’s market is one I wouldn’t want to miss.
Wish we’d made it to Bratislavia but perhaps on another trip. I’m glad to hear that you’ve seen some of the country.
Slovakian countryside looks so charming. I’d love to visit it too. Too bad you were not allowed to take pictures of those icons inside the wooden Greek Catholic church. I would have liked to see them.
You and both! The rest of the open air park was still wonderful.
I went to Bratislava last year and loved the vibe of the city. I know there is way more to see in the country and I hope to return there one day. I am interesting in hiking in the mountains and seeing some historical cities. #WeekendWandelust
Seems like hiking and camping are hugely popular in that region. Wish I were a better camper!
I’ve heard great things about Slovakia, would love to go one day. The farmers market sounds like something I would love to do. Love to see the local dynamics sounds food. Great post.
Seeing all the spring harvest and plants was a real treat. We came home with a few seed packets too. Thanks for the comments, Jessica
I tend to mix up Slovakia and Slovenia, and I think Slovenia is getting a lot of mentions because of Ljubljana and Lake Bled but there are not much exposure on Slovakia. It’s close to Austria, right? Thanks for sharing with us because now I know what are the places to see and experience in Slovakia 🙂 #TheWeeklyPostcard
The two countries do get mixed up. Slovakia is close to Hungary and Croatia. It’s ripe for more visitors too.
That’s interesting to see something different and get to known the countryside in Slovakia. So exotic!
@ knycx.journeying
Seeing the remote villages was a real treat. More stories to come. Thanks for the comment.
I’m from Košice and always enjoy reading what travel bloggers have to say about my home town and the country overall. Glad you had fun there. Smelly Cat and Tabačka are two of my favorite places to hang out.
I’ve never heard of St. Elizabeth’s Cathedral to be referred to as a minster. That, according to my dictionary, is a word reserved for some churches in England. Your source, the Travel Slovakia website, has mistranslated it, which is common in Slovakia (I used to be a translator, my head still aches).
Slovakia IS in the center of Europe. There’s even a place with a marker. But alas, several countries boast having the geographic center of Europe, using different definitions. This is Central Europe for ya.
PS: Please check the country name spelling in your pin image.
Thank you, Peter for the keen observations. Yes, Slovakians consider themselves the center of Europe. It’s in dispute though I found through research and don’t want to quibble. I loved my visit and will be lucky should I get to return.
I love all of your photographs of the lovely Slovakian countryside. I’m a sucker for Gothic cathedrals, and the St. Elizabeth Minster looks just beautiful. Adding Slovakia to my long list!
Thanks for the kind words. I hope you get to everything on that long list.
Absolutely stunning pictures! You have got a great capture of the road ahead from the bus:)… How was the farmer’s market? Did you get to spend very long?
Over the three days we were in Kosice the market was going strong. I bought a few cherries and tchokes but otherwise just enjoyed people watching.
Eastern Slovakia (actually all of Slovakia except for the capital) is so underrated but it is part of the charm 🙂 Glad you had a good time in my home country!
Thanks, Karin. I had a wonderful time and hope to return one day.
Just visited Slovenia for a second time, but only to Lake Bled & Ljubljana again! We’ve decided that we definitely need to explore more of Slovenia, as it’s only a 5 hour drive from us! Long weekend perhaps???… Thanks for linking up with #TheWeeklyPostcard!
It’s so easy to mix up Slovenia and Slovakia. Totally different countries but I’m glad you had a good time in Slovenia.
I almost made it to Slovakia when I was in Europe but the plan didn’t work out. Now you make me regret ahah! I’ll have to go again 😉
Time for a re-do!
We’ve been here but sadly we weren’t able to explore as much! Your post has definitely inspired me to make a comeback- it looks incredible!
I hope you do get to return and see more.
I would have never considered visiting Slovakia, but it sounds like a wonderful place (an maybe less crammed with tourists than Western Europe). Love the insight, and your photos are beautiful.
Thank you, Michelle. I’m glad you liked the pictures and you’re so right that the country is less crowded with tourists but especially the Western ones – so far!
I really enjoyed reading about Slovakia. I’m currently planning a trip to Prague in December and now I’m wondering if I should travel around Eastern Europe a bit more. Do you think the coffeehouse “Smelly Cat” was a nod to Pheobe on Friends?
I hope you make it over to Slovakia during your time in Europe. Your explanation of the Smelly Cat is the best reason I’ve heard! American TV and music is very popular there.