The seaplane windows sprayed with salt water as the pontoons hit the water. Slowly we slid to the dock and climbed out of the little airplane. This is my oldest memory of Catalina Island and my family has returned several times over the decades. Now, crossing “26 miles across the sea,” as the song goes is a treat with family as well as friends. I love that there’s a little city to explore on foot, bike or golf cart as well as the quieter experience of Two Harbors on the other side of the island.

(This post is updated from 2017.)

How to Get To Catalina Island

The first choice when you decide to visit Catalina in the winter is how to get over to the island. There are three ports with departures: San Pedro, Long Beach and Dana Point. We took a large boat from Long Beach, which has parking ($22 a day) across the driveway from the ticket lobby then booked a return to a different port.

The Starship Express Ferry coming into Avalon Harbor

Visit Catalina and Stay in Avalon

There are so many accommodations to choose from in Avalon. My parents rented a condo for a multi-generational anniversary trip. When friends met us in Avalon for a dive trip we choose adjoining hotel rooms at a small hotel up from the main street. Our recent anniversary weekend was a splurge at the Bellanca Hotel, the last as you walk towards the Casino, and it was perfect.  Upgraded recently it has an expansive deck patio, which is perfect for enjoying harbor views. Downstairs is the cute sidewalk cafe, Naughty Fox, where we could get coffee and snacks.
Top deck view from the Bellanca Hotel

Top deck view from the Bellanca Hotel

Where to Eat in Avalon

The village is packed with cafes and hotel restaurants along the bay. We choose two for a weekend winter getaway. The locals enjoy their pizza but for a good time and generous portions choose a drink and dinner at the Lobster Trap. We chose Blue Water Grill for our anniversary dinner. Our seafood entrees competed for top prize with the sunset from our patio table.

The Joys of Two Harbors

This part of the island looms large in my family history. My partner started his seafood business from the beach on the far side of the isthmus. He harvested sea weed for an agar company and strolled into town to the wild bar in the port. Today things are quieter. There are fewer fishermen or tourists, especially in the winter. With trails criss-crossing the hills or low-lying beachfront, there’s something to satisfy anyone who enjoys the outdoors.

Getting There

It’s a bit tricky in winter if you want to visit Catalina and see both Avalon and Two Harbors. Little Harbor which is little more than a small port, beach, and camping spot is closed in the winter months. There’s a ferry between the two spots but not daily. Most of the shuttles are down for the winter. So, we booked a ride with Catalina Back Country which was expensive, but worth it ($200!)
Having a local driver pick us up at our hotel and then pummel him with questions was priceless. Also, little compares to driving over a rise to see a field full of buffalo with an ocean backdrop. We slowed for many pictures and marveled at the experience. During our last visit, the shuttle left from the Airport in the Sky and we only spotted a pair of buffalo. I didn’t spy one of the indigenous foxes but few visitors do.
One trail up to Banning House

One trail up to Banning House

The main sitting room in Banning House

The main sitting room in Banning House

The house was built in 1910 for the Banning family and sits perched on a hill between the two harbors. The craftsman style inn has only 12 rooms that are booked most of the year. We were lucky to score a family-style space facing Catalina Harbor. Each morning there was a modest breakfast, a happy hour in the evening, and we walked down to the Harbor Restaurant for dinner. It was a relaxed and simple routine.

There’s not much lodging in Two Harbors. There are now a few Airbnb rentals, a campground is available, and after the summer crowds have left, you might book one of the modest staff cabins. I recommend booking well in advance.

Trans Catalina trail marker

Catalina Harbor view from the Banning House

Catalina Harbor view from the Banning House

 

Beaches on far side of Catalina Island

Bays on far side of Catalina Island

Buffalo sighting Catalina Island

Buffalo sighting Catalina Island

Crossing by car or bus also gives you a chance to see Buffalo and they’re magnificent locals.

Stop by the Airport in the Sky

The small “Airport in the Sky” was full of kitsch and housed in a beautiful Spanish Colonial style hacienda. There’s a nature exhibit and alongside the souvenir shop, a large, casual dining room. Made me wish I had friends with an airplane although I understand there’s a bump on the runway!

Airport in the sky on Catalina Island

Airport in the sky on Catalina Island

Nature Center on Catalina Island

Art Deco detail inside the Catalina Casino

Art Deco detail inside the Catalina Casino

Catalina Casino band circa 1930

Catalina Casino band circa 1930

I love all things retro from the 20’s and 40’s, I was thrilled to finally tour the old Casino building. It was easy to imagine my mother and her sisters taking the ferry over to dance to the big bands. In those days unescorted women were frowned upon, but if you took the ferry to join the ballroom crowds no one minded. It might have had something to do with Mr. Wrigley banning alcohol on the premises. (He couldn’t keep it off the ferry though!)

When you visit Catalina Island there are so many ways to frame your journey. It’s a bit quieter than pre-pandemic days but the energy is picking up. Check schedules for the return of festivals, dance clubs, restaurants with both casual and fine dining, gardens, camps, and private beaches.

Bar scene in Catalina Island

Bar scene in Avalon

When you visit Catalina

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